Manhattan Chapter of the GIA Alumni
Manhattan Chapter of the GIA Alumni

                                 

                                                       Meeting Notes

May 16, 2017

ASJRA-Using Jewelry History as a Window Into The Past

Ms. Karlin will talk about the history of the Association for the Study of Jewelry and

Related Arts and how the organization offers the opportunity for anyone who is

interested in studying jewelry history to learn. She will talk about the publications

ASJRA publishes and some of the contributions ASJRA has made to jewelry history

scholarship.

 

 

April 19, 2017

Color and Chemistry in Gemstones

Pamela Cevallos, GIA GG, MS and Daniel Girma from the GIA NY Gem Identification Department

Why are rubies red?  How does Alexandrite change color?  Color is a complex topic and is the most important feature for gemstones and minerals.  We will cover basic topics about color and light, and then take a look into the color causes in minerals and gemstones. There will also be a brief overview of the analytical instrumentation used to study color in gemstones. Finally, we will discuss color in some well-known gemstones in the trade.

 

March 21, 2017

Gustav Manz, A Jeweler's Jeweler

Laura Mathews

In the early 20th century, Gustav Manz  produced gem mountings for Tiffany & Co., Dreicer, J.E. Caldwell, Marcus, Black, Starr & Frost and other elite stores. Though Manz’s name is not well-known to the public, his skill as a metal artist is recognized by people in the trade, auction houses, and museum curators. Laura Mathews, who is a book editor and Manz descendant, reexamines his role as maker, and shares insights from his design renderings, business logs, and jewelry to shed light on this hidden history.

 

 

February 15, 2017

Jewelry from Pearls to Platinum to Plastic

Ulysses Grant Dietz

The Newark Museum has been one of the most active collectors of jewelry among American museums in the last decade. Inspired by his 1997 exhibition on Newark’s once-vast fine jewelry industry, Ulysses Dietz turned to non-Newark jewelry and has been acquiring significant pieces, old and new, for the Museum’s Lore Ross Jewelry Gallery since 2006. Diamonds, pearls, platinum and plastic – it’s all part of the museum’s collection which spans five centuries.

 

January 10, 2017

Phenomenal

Daniel W. Campbell, BS, GG, FGA

How many types of phenomena are there? What causes them? Which gems present these effects? How does one determine the quality of a phenomenon? Although phenomenal gems are unusual, they are not unseen in the jewelry world. It’s important that we have a complete knowledge of these effects and their influence on the beauty and desirability of a gem.

 

December 6, 2016

A Jewel in Every Medium

Benjamin Macklowe

This lecture will examine the relationship between the major motifs of the Art Nouveau movement—the whiplash line, the femme-fleur—and the larger emotional and symbolic themes of the period through the medium of jewelry. By using jewelry to bridge the gap between the visual and the cultural, Mr. Macklowe will present a rich and novel understanding of the subject.

In his presentation, Mr. Macklowe will showcase exceptional images to illustrate the history of Art Nouveau design and reveal:

  • How jewelry evolved from status symbol to a form of self-expression
  • How Eastern, Ancient, and European art and culture influenced the motifs and dialogues at the core of the Art Nouveau movement
  • The ways that new sexual freedom, burgeoning women’s rights and technological innovations shaped the materials and marketplace for art and jewelry
  • The origins of how art and commerce came together during this period through the new medium of advertisement

 

November 15, 2016

My Life with Russian Jewels

Marie E. Betteley

Join Marie Betteley, leading expert on Russian jewelry, Fabergé and works of art for this engaging look at her life and career. Marie has handled some of Imperial Russia’s most precious treasures and will tell you about how to separate the real from the faux. From one of the few authorities on Russian jewels outside of Russia, you will learn valuable lessons on how to recognize the best and stay away from the rest. Test your knowledge with a visit to Marie’s show on Madison Avenue, November 16 and 17.

 

October 20, 2016

Lapidary in Jewelry

Naomi Sarna

Naomi Sarna will take us from rough to finished gem carvings, demonstrating her techniques. She will bring one of her carving machines, a variety of tools and several finished and award winning gem carvings.  This is a unique opportunity to observe up close how gem carvings are made by an accomplished master carver. This will be of interest to all persons who deal with precious gems.  For those who are interested in learning how to carve, evaluate and/or understand the craft, there will be many tips and ideas. 

 

September 13, 2016
The Tale of the Blue Moon
Alan Bronstein, Colored Diamond Expert
The Blue Moon Diamond is among the largest known fancy vivid blue diamonds ever found.
Alan Bronstein will share with us its history from the moment this extraordinary rough diamond was discovered and pulled from the earth just 3 years ago, through its metamorphosis to one of the most magnificent and legendary diamonds of modern times.


July 25, 2016
The Importance of Traditional Design in the Digital Age
Jacqueline Stone, Chief Creative Officer of Salt & Stone
Jacqueline Stone’s technical degree from GIA has served her well over the years. She still utilizes the skills obtained from her coursework in her daily interactions with private clients as she builds custom engagement rings and wedding bands. Ms. Stone explores the significance of traditional design techniques in the digital age and why sketch work is still an extremely relevant medium. As the baby boomers phase out of the buy cycle and millennials move in, we all need to be cognizant of the shift in perception around luxury items. The impact of storytelling is more relevant than ever and Ms. Stone explores the influence of traditional design techniques on your sales.

May 17, 2016
Rock That Instagram: How to Creatively Market Your Jewelry Business
Molly Clarke, G.G. GIA
Are you new to using Instagram to promote your jewelry business and feel intimidated by the learning curve? Or do you need some inspiration to develop it further? Join us as Molly Clarke, owner of Rock That Gem and The Ring Liaison, shares her social media expertise to help you understand the nuances and culture of IG while also inspiring you to post creatively and effectively about your products and business. Photo tips, useful hashtags, etiquette, collaborations, and more will all be covered!

April 19, 2016

Country of Origin Determination in Colored Stones
Riccardo Befi and Akhil Sehgal from the GIA NY Gem Identification Department
What lies behind the GIA Country of Origin determination? Starting from the field trips to acquiring the rough directly from the source and sample preparation is important to understand just how to collect, interpret and analyze gemological data. Gem deposits from recently discovered mines will be covered as well, with many beautiful slides.

March 15, 2016
Art Jewelry Forum
Susan Kempin and Bella Neyman, Members of the AJF Board
Ms. Kempin's and Ms. Newman's talk will explore the role of the Art Jewelry Forum in promoting and supporting contemporary art jewelry as well as recent trends. They will also give an in depth look into the work of the five AJF Artist Award Finalists.
Ms. Kempin's and Ms. Neyman's talk will explore the role of the Art Jewelry Forum in promoting and supporting contemporary art jewelry as well as recent trends. They will also give an in depth look into the work of the five AJF Artist Award Finalists.

February 16, 2016
Synthetic Diamonds
Danny Baruch, American Grown Diamonds
Lab Grown Diamonds have the same chemical, physical and optical properties as mined diamonds. The only difference is their point of origin! Danny Baruch will share with us what we need to know about distinguishing between an American Grown diamond and a Mined Diamond….or not!

January 12 , 2016
Where Metal and Fire Meet Love
Donna Distefano, Jewelry Designer
Donna Distefano, award winning jeweler, master goldsmith, and owner of Donna Distefano Ltd, will present a comprehensive lecture on the history of goldsmithing. She will discuss current goldsmithing in the modern luxury market, and where the expression of poetry and literature intersect with this ancient art form.

December 1 , 2015
Jewelers for Children
David Rocha, Executive Director
Learn more about Jewelers for Children, the industry’s charity and how more than $ 48 million has been donated in the name of the jewelry industry to help children in need. See how you can become involved in helping to spread the word about the good the jewelry industry is doing, including ways to become involved.

November 3 , 2015
Networking and Beyond
Andrea Nierenberg, Executive Coach, Consultant, Author
Why is networking so critical and how it is a misunderstood word? How can we network in a world of change? Realizing that networking is a leadership skill will help us answer these questions.
Andrea will discuss 5 best practices to incorporate into our daily lives. Remember, “The opposite of networking is not working.”

October 13 , 2015
Pimped Out Pocketwatches
Gary L. Lester, GIA G.G.
Pocket watches, historically, have been quite functional. What happens when they are made with a bent towards the fashionable? Explore the art and craft of theresult of watchmakers and jewelers with Gary L. Lester.
Gary is a Graduate Gemologist, Certified Senior Member of NAJA, and has spent many years working with watches and has presented in several national venues.

September 9 , 2015
Clarity Enhancement of Emeralds: Detection, Filler Identification & Disclosure
Wendi Mayerson, B.A., GIA G.G.
In this lecture, Wendi will provide you with the methods for detecting
identifying the most commonly used emerald fillers in the market today. She will discuss the efficiency of the different fillers and explain practical techniques for identifying them. Wendi will also address disclosure practices and provide guidelines for quantifying the extent of clarity enhancement.

May 12 , 2015
How Exotic Gems are Revolutionizing the Jewelry Market
Renee Newman, GG, Author
Gems that were once only bought by collectors are becoming increasingly popular in jewelry stores and designer boutiques. New finds have made these non-traditional gems more available, and retailers are using the stones to set themselves apart from their competition by creating unusual items to wear and give as gifts. This increasing interest in exotic gems prompted author Renee Newman to write four books on them - Exotic Gems: Volumes 1, 2, & 3 and Rare Gemstones.
Her presentation will help you evaluate the quality of unusual gem materials and show you how they can be used to create distinctive jewelry. The session will include photo examples and information on:

  • Unique jewelry designs with non-traditional gems
  • Value factors that can be more important than color
  • Care tips and appropriate setting styles for fragile gems
  • Pricing, including the highest-priced non-traditional gems
  • Geographic sources

Before and after the lecture, Renee will be selling and signing her books. Bring either cash or a check if you wish to purchase. Check out her boos on www.ReneeNewman.com

April 28, 2015
Identification of Gemstone Enhancements
The GIA NY Gem Identification Department
The GIA NY Gem ID Department will be on hand to discuss the gemstone treatment identification process, which is the most challenging task for gemologists. This will be followed by an update on the new reports.

March 10, 2015
Look Out For Look-Alikes
Dan Campbell, BS, GIA G.G., FGA
Whether your job involves buying, selling, grading or appraising, gem look-alikes will pop up regularly and, seemingly, when you least expect them. We’ll review the full range of imitations and how they might be quickly and easily distinguished from their more valuable counterparts, so we might avoid potentially costly on-the-job errors.

February 17, 2015
Auctionata: Traditional Meets Digital
Katherine D. Palmiter, GIA G.G.
The auction market has evolved over the years with the need to reach a global audience of consignors and buyers. While auctioneering is often thought of as an old world business, advances in technology have transferred the classical backdrop of the auction room to the internet, providing bidders with live stream auctions, real-time information on the bidding activities of the participants and the ability to place bids globally. Auctionata Jewelry Specialist Katherine Palmiter (GIA G.G. New York ’06) traces the origins of the traditional bricks and mortar auction house to the emerging digital platforms that are shaping the way we will buy and sell jewelry in the future.

January 13, 2015
Myanmar Discoveries
Dr. George Harlow, Curator Gem Hall, American Museum of Natural History
Dr. Harlow first visited Myanmar in 1998, to prepare for a jade mine expedition, and got to visit fabulous Mogok. Now three trips later, he will share some of his stories, experiences and findings from expeditions to the jade mines and Mogok, including gems and minerals acquired for the American Museum of Natural History.

December 3, 2014
The New Consumers and the Diamond and Jewelry Industry
Rob Bates, Senior Editor at JCK
The Millennial generation – the largest in U.S. history -- is about to make its presence felt at our nation’s sales counters. How do they differ from past generations, and how should our industry respond? JCK news director Rob Bates looks at how this generation will have an impact on hot-button industry topics like synthetics, differences in lab grading, online selling, and the Kimberley Process, and discusses what changes they might bring to our business.

November 11, 2014
"Dr. Allen M. Bassett and the Ruby Mines of Nepal" Plus Two Featurettes: "From Gemology to Mineral Physics & Back Again" and "An Update on a Gem of the Future: Nano-Polycrystalline Diamond (NPD)"
Elise A. Skalwold, BSc, FGA, GIA GG, Consulting Gemological Curator, Cornell University
In the early 1970s, geologist and gemologist Dr. Allen M. Bassett dreamed of building a gem industry in Nepal. An early “Field Gemologist,” his love of minerals – and gems in particular – began as a young boy, never waning as he pursued a doctorate and then a geological career spanning several decades. Early on, his work took him to exotic lands, including a life-changing trip to Nepal as part of the San Diego Himalayan Expedition. Dr. Bassett later became the first Western scientist to trek to these high altitude localities in the Ganesh Himal [Dhading District] and was the first scientist to describe the geology of the region. In his quest to establish a fully integrated gem industry in Nepal, he brought in the first faceting machines, initially starting this endeavor with the unique tourmalines of the Hyakule Mine. He later helped found the Kathmandu-based company "Himalayan Gems, Nepal" and was instrumental in developing the ruby mines of Chumar and Ruyil.

October 14, 2014
Spectroscope Review
Jerrold Root, GIA GG, FGA
Next to magnification, most truly experienced gemologists consider the spectroscope to be the 2nd most important tool in their arsenal. Why is it then that most run from using it, let alone becoming proficient in the use of this wonderful instrument? After this 2 hour session you will most likely find yourself without a good answer to this question and well on the road to becoming comfortable in the use of the spectroscope. Beginning with the basics of the instrument, you will then be shown how and what to look for. The balance of the session will be dedicated to individual testing and identification of unknown gem materials, while being personally assisted and guided. Some ID’s will be easy, some not so, but Mr. Root guarantees this to be a fun, educational and enlightening experience. Everyone in attendance is required to bring a hand-held spectroscope (diffraction grating or prism), a non LED penlight with fresh batteries, and any textbook you might have with a reference section of sample spectra.

September 9, 2014
The Tao of Jewelry - A Collector's Guide
Paula Crevoshay, Jewelry Designer
Some great artists show a flash of genius and are gone, some show us a new vision and spend the rest of their careers repeating themselves and a few, the very greatest, continue to explore and reinvent themselves year after year taking their work and their audience to ever greater heights, enriching the broader culture in the process. Paula Crevoshay is widely recognized to be among the very few in the latter group.
From the beginning Crevoshay has applied Fine Art Principles to jewelry design. In addition to Fine Art, Crevoshay studied Anthropology, especially Symbolism, and you will note in her very modern expression of artistic archetypes echoes of cultures past, which makes her work accessible to people everywhere.

July 28, 2014
"Sharing the Rough"
Roger Dery, AGTA Gemstone Cutting Edge Award Winner
Roger Dery, a US based colored gemstone cuter, travels to developing nations to acquire rough from the source. The world of colored gems is still dominated by individual miners and artisans; each has a unique story to tell. Join AGTA award-winning gem cutter, Roger Dery as he presents behind the scenes footage from the upcoming documentary, "Sharing the Rough".
"Sharing the Rough" is a powerful story that follows the path of a single gemstone through the hands of the East African miners, to the gem cutter who brings out their inner beauty, and finally to the jewelry designer (Mark Schneider) who will create that unique piece of art that will highlight the beauty of the gem.
Roger Dery is the gem cutter who will take us behind the scenes of "Sharing the Rough" with out-takes, clips and anecdotes.
This seminar will be inspiring for all gemologists, gem enthusiasts, jewelry artisans, retailers, hobbyists, and experts alike. You'll be able to meet and discuss with Roger what it's like to make a film of this nature, and the incredible journey that made this documentary possible.

Update on Collectible and Vintage Timepieces
Edward Faber of Aaron Faber Gallery
What is considered Antique? Vintage? Contemporary? Edward Faber will go over guidelines for assessing values based on brand, presentation, material, complication, rarity and the impact of after-market gemstones and non-factory parts. Terms to be reviewed but not limited to: moonphase, repeater, tourbillion, annual vs. perpetual, automatic vs. manual vs. quartz, etc.

April 23, 2014

Updated Overview of Advanced Instrumentation in the GIA Laboratory with The GIA NY Colored Stones Department
Riccardo Befi, GG, Applied Gemology Manager
Pamela Cevallos, MS GG, Advanced Gemology Manager
Emily Dubinsky, MS, GG, Senior Manager
Characterization of a colored gem in the GIA Laboratory involves a full range of analytical techniques. Routine treatment of all types of gemstones is commonly performed to enhance their appearance or durability. Often treatments are undetectable—and undisclosed—to the purchaser.
We will provide an overview of the various advanced instrumentation that the GIA Laboratory uses to identify colored gemstones and their treatment history. Also, we will provide relevant examples of current production challenges.

March 11, 2014
Gilded New York: Design, Fashion & Society
Jeannine Falino, Exhibiton Co-Curator, Museum of the City of New York
The fashion and design culture of New York City between 1880 and 1914 will be the focus of this lecture. The rise of a wealthy class in New York City after the civil war was paralleled by conspicuous consumption in jewelry, fashion, interior décor, furnishings, and the decorative arts. This lecture will review these works of art in the context of luxury retail establishments such as Tiffany & Co. and iconic cultural institutions such as the Metropolitan Opera along with the famously extravagant balls that enabled New Yorkers of the Gilded Age to display their new found fortunes and social status.

February 19, 2014

What's New in The Old Diamond Market
Michael Goldstein, Antique Diamond Expert
Why are antique diamonds so appealing? Should all these old cuts be recut to modern standards? What is the market like? How do they compare to modern cuts? Michael Goldstein will answer these questions and share with us his expertise in this world of antique diamonds. He will also discuss his concerns on GIA grading issues of these stones..

January 14, 2014

The Best in Colored Diamonds, Past and Future
Alan Bronstein, Colored Diamond Expert
What happened with fancy color diamonds in 2013? What does the future hold for colored diamonds and their long term appreciation? Where does their story begin beyond fable and folklore? Alan Bronstein, colored diamond expert and trader for 30 years, and The Collector of The Aurora Pyramid of Hope and The Aurora Butterfly of Peace, will share with us the magic allure of these phenomenal diamonds and what to expect of them in the future.

December 4, 2013
Top 10 Gems & Jewelry Newsflashes of 2013
Diane Warga-Arias, The Jewelry Activist
Diane Warga-Arias will bring her special blend of education and entertainment to the Manhattan GIA Alumni. Join us to hear her chosen Top 10 newsflashes from 2013 that will include issues in jewelry design, fashion, branding, gemology, e-commerce, manufacturing, retail & trade-show trends. Her opinion counts, because she has an impressive track-record for changing the way brands sell and how consumers buy.
Her experience spans five continents and she is well-respected for her support throughout the diamond (and jewelry) pipeline. She is also a trusted consumer resource. Read Diane’s full biography on LinkedIn & Facebook and follow her on Twitter@JewelryActivist, as well as www.JewelryActivist.com

November 13, 2013
"Historical Judaica Gems & Jewelry & Rabbinic Law
Rabbi David Altman
Rabbi David Altman brought to light the subject of the history of gems in Judaica Jewelry and its use in the Bible and other Jewish sources; these sources include the Talmud and Midrash (explanations by rabbis).
The lecture also dealt with some Rabbinic court decisions regarding jewelry business between dealers, which may have applications to today's operations in the industry.

October 8, 2013

"Fire Polish Diamonds"
Glenn Markman, GIA GG
There is a new cutting technique that substantially increases the fire in any diamond. It is approved by GIA and AGS. Join us for a journey on how this revolutionary cutting technique was developed and how you can identify and value a Fire Polished Diamond.

September 11, 2013

A Day in The Live of a Colored Stone Buyer
Wendi Mayerson, GG from Judith Ripka
Colored Stone Buyers do much more than just buy stones for their employers, as Wendi found out when she became the Stone Procurement Manager for Judith Ripka. With a B.A. in Geology from Colgate University, a G.G. from GIA’s Resident Program and over 25 years in the jewelry industry including retail, wholesale, education, laboratory, auction and lecturing experience, Wendi is able to pull what she’s learned from her past and use it to successfully navigate her present position. She will share what she’s learned and what it takes to get the job done.

July 29, 2013

US Trade Regulations on Plants and Wildlife Products Used in Jewelry
Sara E. Yood, Assistant General Counsel JVC
Do you use animal wildlife products in your jewelry? Have you noticed the new sting-ray trends proliferating the marketplace? Curious about the legal sale of ivory, tortoiseshell and coral in the United States? Want to know more about compliant importation and exportation of these materials? The laws surrounding the trade in protected materials are vast and varied. Hear from JVC on how to comply with the restrictions on trade in protected materials and with Customs requirements. Retailers, manufacturers, distributors, and those who trade in these materials will learn which animal products are “endangered” or “threatened,” and how to import them legally for use in jewelry.

June 26, 2013

"Original Paraiba Tourmaline, The Real Story"
Brian Cook, Geologist
Few actually know when, where, how, why, the original discovery happened. Not only was Brian there, but he is still there. He will be telling the story from the discovery to present. His talk will include some geology, some gemology, and the interesting stories behind the stones!

May 7, 2013

"Diamonds of the Forbidden Zone"

Denise Nelson, GG, Jeweler and Appraiser
A rare inside look at the actual De Beers mining operations in South Africa and Namibia. Denise visited the famous Cullinan mine and spent several days as a guest within the huge "forbidden" zone which holds the pocket- beach mines of Namibia. A once-in-a-lifetime helicopter excursion to a diamond dredging ship completes this gemologist's dream adventure.

April 24, 2013

The New Synthetic Diamond

Wuyi Wang, Ph.D., Director of Research and Tom Moses, G.G, Sr. Vice President GIA Laboratory

Technologies for gem diamond synthesis developed rapidly in the last ten years, and various types of products are available in the gem market. In addition to the well-known HPHT method, high quality products are manufactured using CVD technology with post-growth treatments. Very recently, a new type of synthetic diamond, Nano-Polycrystalline Diamond, “NPD”, showed potential as a new gem material. In this presentation, we will review the current status of synthetic gem diamonds and potential challenges in identification, with a focus on NPD materials.

March 12, 2013

Crime Prevention for Jewelers: How to Stay Safe in a Dangerous Business

John Kennedy, President, Jewelers Security Alliance

Jewelers' Security Alliance works closely with the FBI and local police on over 1,500 crimes committed each year in the U.S. against jewelry firms. Mr. Kennedy will discuss the principal crime risks faced by jewelers and the most effective strategies to avoid becoming a victim. Risks from robbery, burglary and theft were discussed, as well as the risks faced on the road or outside a store, office or at home. Each attendee will receive a copy of the 137-page JSA Manual of Jewelry Security, the only published book on this topic.

February 19, 2013

Creating a Narrative That Sells: Tools and Strategies

Tony Seideman, Custom Publisher

Boosting Your Profile: Basic Tools for Generating Visibility for Your Clients and Yourself
Applying some basic tools and techniques in today's marketplace can help you generate significant exposure for you and your clients. Tony Seideman has generated millions of dollars’ worth of exposure for jewelry stores and jewelry industry companies. He'll talk about such fundamentals as:

• Creating an effective local media list.
• Putting together "buzzworthy" store and personal events.
• Doing basic gem photography.
• Free tools to help you work effectively.

Besides his own comments, Mr. Seideman will also provide some basic materials and web links to help you improve your visibility in a way that boosts revenue and profitability.

January 16, 2013

"Chasing Gold to Where it Has Taken Me"

Tom Herman, Jeweler Extraordinare , Seven Fingers Jewelry

Being near sighted can get you quite far. The great Yogi once said, "you can observe a lot by just watching". My interest in detail has driven me since I was quite young. Finding fossils in the limestone along the railroad track or peering into the end grain of a newly cut trunk of wood; I was entranced by the complexity of it all. Come along and I'll take you on a photographic journey through my jewels, inspired by the details in life.

December 5, 2012

An Evening with Donna Baker, G.G.

President and CEO of GIA

Over the past five years, GIA has transformed into a truly global operation. GIA president and CEO, Donna Baker, will give Manhattan alumni a detailed, inside look at GIA, including how it is rapidly expanding lab operations while insuring that quality and consistency – its hallmark for several decades – remain at its high level, and how educational offerings are adapting to the needs of a global audience and today’s technology.

November 14, 2012

Diamonds & Some Colored Stones

Nick DelRe, GG, Gem ID, R&D, EGL USA

Gems are usually, but not always, what they intend or appear to be! This presentation will involve both the art and

science of gems along with their treatments: past, future, and present!

October 10, 2012

The House of Bolin: Imperial Russia's Premier Court Jeweler

Marie E. Betteley, GG, Antique Jewelry Dealer

"Carl Fabergé has long claimed the role of Russia​s most famous court jeweler. Little is known about other

Russian imperial jewelers of which at least fifty held the Romanov warrant. The most prominent among them was Bolin. Unlike Fabergé who served the last two tsars of Russia, The House of Bolin produced jewelry for not two but seven consecutive Russian sovereigns beginning with Catherine the Great. And incredible as it may seem almost 100 years after the Bolshevik Revolution, Bolin still continues today in Stockholm. Originally from Sweden, Bolin is known as the oldest, still active jewelry house owned by the same family in history. "

October 8, 2012

The Lore and the Profits
Dr. Jack Ogden, FGA, FGAHK, FSA, Chief Executive Gem-A,
For thousands of years gems and minerals have had a variety of myths, magic and medicinal properties attributed to them. Scepticism about this gem lore is not new – the Roman writer Pliny was outspoken about the ‘untruths’ regarding gems expressed in his day – and modern gemmologists typically pour scorn on such things. However closer examination shows that there can be reasons for at least some of the associated lore – some scientific, some amusing. Certain attributes associated with Gems in Medieval times can be seen to be simple misunderstandings of what classical writers were trying to say, in other cases some medical properties may indeed be based on truth. Of the apparent ‘untruths’ some were presumably those used by charlatans to sell cures, others may simply have been the exaggerated claims of those marketing jewellery – an approach that is hardly unknown today. This talk will consider some of background to the lore of gemstones in the context of 2000 years of jewellery and show that however sceptical one might be, it provides fascinating insight into gem history as well as providing a wealth of anecdotes that even the most ardent ‘non-believer’ can use to weave history and interest around the gems they are exhibiting or selling.

September 12, 2012

Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau Jewelry: Similarities and Differences

Elyse Zorn Karlin, Author, Curator

The Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau art movements at the beginning of the 20th century took place at roughly the same time period...from about 1895-1920. There are significant similarities and differences in the influences of both movements, the stylistic approach, materials used and the portion of society the jewelry was intended for. This lecture traced the history of both movements and show where they overlapped and how they diverged.

July 30, 2012

Selling More Color the AGTA Way

Doug Hucker, CEO of AGTA

Jewelry Retailers have opportunities to make extraordinary margins in their colored gemstone and culture pearl departments. Successful growth in sales requires a dedicated and planned approach. Douglas Hucker, AGTA CEO, shared proven sales techniques that incorporate compelling and relevant facts, value statements and benefits as they relate to colored gemstone jewelry.

May 15, 2012

Spinel: A Once Forgotten Gem on the Rise
Christopher P. Smith, GG, FGA, President of AGL

Spinel has historically been one of the most highly revered gemstones although its popularity had suffered as a result of many factors, including its classification as “semi-precious” and a general confusion with another dominant red gemstone: ruby. More recently though spinel has been making a strong comeback and so its popularity is once again on the rise. Important new sources and even a book devoted to this beautiful and colorfully diverse gemstone have helped to focus attention back onto spinel. In addition to exhibiting a vibrant array of shades and nuances of color, spinel has also traditionally been spared the controversy of treatments that have encumbered many other gem varieties, such as ruby, sapphire, emerald, quartz, topaz, tanzanite, etc. However, today some treatments are starting to be encountered. This talk was a review of the various sources of spinel, treatments and the gemological characteristics that help to distinguish them.

April 17, 2012

Donna Beaton, G.G. and the Color Stone Dept. Staff-GIA NY Laboratory

Are you up to date with your updates? The latest on ruby treatments, review of previous treatments and the most recent nomenclature that appears on reports from the lab were discussed. Following was the update on the newest African opals, the most recent opal treatment and latest synthetics. And drumroll please… examples from laboratory submissions - jadeite imitations and interesting assembled materials.

March 14, 2012

Reflections in a Golden Eye: How to Photograph Jewelry

Joseph Gold, Jewelry Photographer

Photography performs several functions in our world. One is to represent the actual and another is to evoke emotion. An image of jewelry as it actually appears relies on a technical approach. This would be the sound course for an appraiser. On the other hand, if you are trying to sell jewelry, then an emotional image, which may suffer somewhat technically in order to create a feeling about the jewelry is required. Both methods are acceptable depending on the desired result. Using a specialist in jewelry photography is important and the necessity of using the right type of lighting and equipment, etc.

February 15, 2012

From Maui to Manhattan
Jewelry Designer Tiffany Chou

Growing up on a tropical island, jewelry designer Tiffany Chou was always inspired by her surroundings. Tiffany's love of the ocean greatly influenced her jewelry line which was launched in the fall of 2010. Much of her success is due to hard work, perseverance, the importance of quality craftsmanship and a connection with her customers.

December 6, 2011

National Jeweler's Year in Review and Look Forward

Whitney Sielaff, Editorial Director

National Jeweler's chief editor, Whitney Sielaff, presented the leading trends driving today's fine jewelry market and examples of how companies are best addressing them and offered suggestions for where the industry is headed, based on both the magazine's perspectives well as that of its parent company, Nielsen, a world-leading market intelligence firm.

November 15, 2011

Experiencing Gems, Observational Roots - No Equipment!

Dan Campbell, G.G., F.G.A.

Whether a gemologist is identifying a stone, grading it or appraising it, careful observation is indispensable. Often, testing with gemological equipment may not even be necessary. “Experiencing” gems means paying attention to what they’re showing us. Mr. Campbell discussed the valuable information that can be gathered with ease and without equipment!

October 11, 2011

The Gemstone Trade Viewed from a Different Angle - Revealing Lapidary

Jerrold Green, Principal and Lapidary at Reginald C. Miller, LLC

Colored stones can be a mystery. Provenance, country of origin, time period and country of manufacture provide the many variables that determine value. We explored how colored gemstones are made, how every stone can be improved and what understanding cutting styles can reveal at a glance.

September 13, 2011

Appraisals, The Right Way

Gail Brett Levine, G.G.

Still doing one page appraisals? Still have the disclaimer that you are not responsible? Oh boy! What are the elements of an appraisal document that will keep you safe, ethical and USPAP compliant? Ms. Levine gave us a step-by-step construction of an insurance replacement appraisal document with the limiting conditions that serve your client as well as yourself.

July, 2011

The Nature of Pearls

Alex Vock, ProVockative Gems

We were treated to a hands-on event to learn the good-better-best of what oysters really have to offer. Alex Vock, renowned pearl industry leader, will guided us on a journey through the diverse and delightful world of pearls. South Seas, Akoyas and Chinese Freshwaters were abound to compare and contrast the quality, availability and, of course, pricing! We explored the illustrious arena of the Nacreous Natural Pearl, its varied historical symbolism and the new market for these rare gems.

Alex, President of ProVockative Gems for the last 20 years, has been on the front lines of the Pearl Market, from wild shell collection to pearl harvest and into a finished piece. Alex has been profiled in the book Tears of Mermaids by Steven Bloom, and featured as an expert in multiple articles of internationally recognized magazine Pearl World - The International Pearling Journal, Rapaport, and other publications.

May 12, 2011

From Crystal to Consumer, Exploring the Design, Function and Unique Traits Of The Crown of Light Diamond

Cindy Coates, Diamonds International

A premium 90 facet diamond, the Crown of Light has met with runaway success since its soft launch just 3 years ago. For the professional appraiser, a thorough understanding of the function of its patented design and the complete history from mine to finished product is crucial for appraising the distinctive diamond. The power-point presentation, complete with hands on examination of this diamond equipped us to recognize and properly identify this stone. With more consumers purchasing the Crown of Light, we will be ready before a client comes to us for an appraisal. We learned how to explain the Crown of Light's attributes and conduct a professional appraisal for our clientele. Attendees will have the opportunity to have their business recognized on the Crown of Light website as Qualified Appraisers for the Crown of Light.

April 12, 2011

Everything You Always Wanted To Know About Opals

Donna Beaton, GG, and the Color Stone Dept. Staff- GIA NY Laboratory
What are they really made of and how and where did they form? Donna Beaton reviewed the characterization and properties of this beloved and bewitched gemstone and then delved into sources, treatments, and synthetics and shared a few samples. Participants were encouraged to bring in and share their own at the end of the lecture.

March 16, 2011
Etruscan Revival Jewelry

Rob Aretz, GG
Amphora, fibula, granulation, micro mosaic, twisted wire - they are all gold making techniques, styles and materials reintroduced to the world in the 19th century.
Etruscan Revival jewelry was made by highly skilled jewelers such as Castellani and Giuliano. The lecture covered the ancient vs. the antique. Attendees came to explore this ancient and distinct style of gold work with this respected scholar.

February 16, 2011
Argyle Pink Tender

Gary Roskin, GG, FGA

Gary was invited back again to see and report on Rio Tinto’s 2010 Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender. The Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender is the most spectacular display of Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, and Fancy Deep pinks and purplish-pink diamonds in the world. And it is ALL about color! Whether or not you have seen a few of these magnificent gems in person, this is your opportunity to examine up close and personal (in images, of course) ALL of this year’s 55 Tender stones, including 19 Vivids, including: 13 Vivid Purplish-Pinks, and 6 Vivid Pinks; 26 Intenses: 13 Intense Purplish-Pinks, and 13 Intense Pinks; 7 Deeps: 4 Deep Purplish-Pinks, and 3 Deep Pinks. This year’s Tender stones also included 3 Reds: all Fancy Purplish-Reds (SI1, SI2, and I2). We witnessed what it’s like to be in the room, to closely examine and photograph the pinks, and to discuss the details of color, clarity, and possible prices paid for these exquisite diamonds!l

January 11, 2011
Design, Triumphs and Passions

Temple St. Clair, Jewelry Designer

Designing jewelry was never Temple St. Clair’s ambition. Originally her jewelry was the by-product of a love of storytelling, art and travel. Today Temple’s jewelry comprises a vital enterprise that continues to support her passions while producing the best jewelry possible from the finest materials and craftsmanship in the world, and sold with a penchant for personal customer service and support. Conceiving the creative business model is a dynamic process that requires constant innovation, flexibility and a desire to learn, refine, and improve.

December 8, 2010

Diamonds, Colored Stones and Jewelry - Where We Are in December 2010

Simon Teakle, FGA
Simon discussed the development of the estate jewelry market over the past 12 months. From plunging stocks and market paralysis to making sales now, within private treaty sales and auctions, how they compare and what they really mean. Simon is one of the world’s leading valuation experts, former head of Christie’s Jewelry Department.

November 16, 2010
Amber & Jet, Myth & Magic

Maggie Campbell Pedersen, FGA

The talk looked at the two best-known organic gem materials of plant origin - amber and jet - both of which occur worldwide, are many millions of years old, and have been used for decorative purposes for thousands of years. Attention was also given to the many treatments that amber and copal resins undergo today, and to some of the simulants and fakes on the market.

October 28, 2010
Update on Synthetic Color Stones

Donna Beaton, GG and the NY Laboratory Staff

As a follow-up to the May 2010 lecture on synthetic colored gemstones and manufacturing methods, a hands-on experience allowed participants to reinforce their knowledge and brush up on microscopy skills. The various types of synthetic corundum and emerald were set up in two classrooms, with the NY Laboratory staff available to answer any questions.

October 12, 2010
Gem Material: Historically Speaking...

Michael Coan, Chair of Jewelry Design at Fashion Institute of Technology

An historic survey of the prominence of gem material; the rise and fall of certain gem material - why some made it to the "big time" and some went the way of the Studebaker.
This was an historical view of gem material; sometimes less is good, sometimes more is better, sometimes a lot is worse. Putting gem material in an historical context is not always easy, but there are some guidelines to follow. If you have ever asked yourself, why is coral so highly prized in the Himalayan country of Tibet, we found out why at this lecture. A common sense approach to understanding the historical value of gems.

September 15, 2010

You Can Identify It, But Can You Sell It?

Jim Fiebig

In this presentation, Jim’s goal was to use gemstone knowledge to help gemologists actually sell more colored gemstones in their business. He also brought us up to date on Zultanite from Turkey and the gemstone scene in Madagascar.

August 19, 2010

Rare Pearls & New Developments in the Pearl Industry

Blaire Beavers

Pearl scholar Blaire Beavers explored jewelry-quality rare pearls and the latest developments in cultured and natural pearls, including pearls from the Nautilus pompilius cephalopod and the growing threat of natural pearl fraud. The economic downturn and good old-fashioned ingenuity have combined to create some of the most interesting and beautiful pearls of 2010.

July 26, 2010
A Love Affair with Gemstones

Robert Bentley

For 30 years now, Robert has collaborated with some of the most talented lapidary artists and jewelers in the world in an attempt to bring fresh design perspectives and the beauty of the mineral kingdom to the world. Rebelling against the idea of " Semi Precious/Precious Stones " Robert Bentley Company"s mission has always been to present the hierarchy of all colored gemstone species.

May 11, 2010
Update on Synthetic Color Stones
Donna Beaton, GG, and the NY Laboratory Staff

Synthetic gemstones have been around for a lot longer than most people realize. We reviewed the history of methods of manufacture, what is commonly available, and some characteristic features. Unusual and common “case studies” from the lab will be presented. In addition, we looked at the new developments in synthetics, on both the research and commercial front.

April 13, 2010

Enhanced Colorless, Pink and Yellow Diamonds Today: Process and Identification
Dusan Simic, B.Sc., FGG, SGC

This presentation covered the equipment used for HPHT treatment (and irradiation). Also covered were the steps in processing and distribution at Suncrest Diamonds, USA, and the other major companies. Dusan showed us samples before and after treatment and provided a description of the Standard and Advanced Techniques used. With treated diamonds becoming more prevalent in our industry, this was a great opportunity to learn about identification, disclosure and the marketing of enhanced diamonds available today.

March 10, 2010
Hot Topics in The Diamond and Jewelry Industry

Rob Bates, Sr. Editor of JCK
This presentation focused on the Hottest Topics in the Diamond and Jewelry Industry. This most informed industry reporter and JCKonline blogger discussed how the industry was impacted by the "Great Recession"
and what challenges it faces in the years ahead.

February 17, 2010
5 Decades of Contemporary American Jewelry Design
Marlene Richey

Marlene Richey has been an active participant in the jewelry world since the mid-60’s when she was studying jewelry design in college. In this presentation she chronicled the contemporary American jewelry design movement from a personal inside perspective as well as historical context, covering the worlds of fashion, art, craft and fine jewelry. Marlene took us up to 2010 and explained the extraordinary changes and monumental influences that are occurring right this moment.

Marlene offered her book "Profiting By Design: A Jewelry Maker's Guide to Business Success" for the Eunice Miles Scholarship Fund Raffle. They were also for sale and signed by the author.

January 14, 2010
Business in the New Reality:
Innovative Strategies to Take You From 'What IS' to 'What IF'

Kate Peterson of Performance Concepts

What used to be good enough is simply not good enough any more! You've done all the logical and sensible things to streamline, tighten, and evolve your business.

Now its time to look to your future - to transform your thinking - to find the competitive advantage that will take you to the top.

Top companies know that innovative thinking is one key value component that can't be outsourced. The best run businesses are those with deep cultures of creative problem-solving.

In this lively, interactive presentation, we were challenged to look for new solutions to the day to day issues that threaten to de-rail our forward motion. Got a situation worth of study? We came prepared to put it out there and let the group , armed with newly found skills and open minds, discuss the options!

December 8, 2009

A Magical Mystery Tour of Natural Color Diamonds

with your guide Alan Bronstein
Alan Bronstein is a diamond expert and trader in natural color diamonds for 30 years. He is the collector of The Aurora Pyramid of Hope and The Aurora Butterfly of Peace. Join Alan on a photo journey that takes us through the exotic realm of diamond colors.

Picture yourself on a boat on a river with tangerine trees and marmalade skies…

November 10, 2009
Howard Rubin, GG

Do You Use Price Lists? What They Do and Don't Tell You!

Most of us use price lists, but a quick comparison of a few lists only asks more questions than they answer. We learned how to look at a price list and have it make sense. We saw the comparisons and were surprised.

October 14, 2009

Cindy Edelstein & Frank Stankus

BRILLIANCE! Masterpieces from the American Jewelry Design Council

If someone asked you to create a jewel about water what would you design? How about "peekaboo"?

Attendees were treated to what two dozen master jewelers did to interpret these and so many more ideas when authors Cindy Edelstein and Frank Stankus shared the visual bounty of their book "BRILLIANCE! Masterpieces of the American Jewelry Design Council."

The AJDC is a non-for-profit arts organization comprised of some of our industry's most talented artists -- masters like Henry Dunay and Jose Hess, Michael Good, Michael Bondanza and Whitney Boin to fine

craftsmen like Kent Raible, Alan Revere and Falcher Fusager.

The book is a compilation of a decade's worth of their one-of-a-kind projects whereby each year a theme is chosen -- often one word or concept -- and each member spins their own interpretation in metal and stone.

The collection is a glorious love-letter to the art of fine jewelry. It's a study in beauty, theory, concept and interpretation. Many of the projects are fine jewels ready to be worn to a gala or even the office. While others are more abstract and less literally jewelry.

This collection was explored with the authors and their stories of the projects, the artists and the organization. Also explored were the concepts behind these beautiful jewels and more about the men and women who created them and thus a little piece of history in the process.

October 8, 2009
Rui Galopim de Carvalho, Executive Liaison Ambassador ICA - International Colored Gemstone Association

The Impact of Brazilian Gemstones in 18th century Jewelry Design

The history of jewelry is intimately attached to the history of the use of gems throughout times. As an example, the opening of the sea route to India in the 16th Century had a huge impact due to the more readily available gems produced in the Orient. The discovery of the new gem occurrences in Brazil during the 18th century, namely diamond, imperial and colorless topaz, amethyst and chrysoberyl, completely changed the concept of jewelry, resulting in the massive use of new coming gems and color. Due to the Brazil connection, Portuguese jewelry became unique and differs greatly from the European production of the time. In this presentation, we travelled back in time from medieval times towards the early 19th century, explaining how the new sources and trade routes affected jewelry design, with illustrations of magnificent Portuguese jewelry.

September 15, 2009
Robert Lucien May, G.G., Executive Director National Color Diamond Association (NCDIA)

“The Language of Color” - Natural Color Diamonds

Whether you are a retailer, dealer, manufacturer or appraiser, natural color diamonds can help you earn higher profits and differentiate yourself in the current market. We learned how current brands, designers and manufacturers have embraced this category and enhanced their bottom line.

July 27, 2009

Michael Dyber
Gems of The Mind

Michael M. Dyber is an internationally recognized gem designer. His innovative designs and techniques have changed the perception of gem design forever. This presentation covered the development and application of Michael’s three award winning signature techniques, the "Dyber Optic Dish", "Luminaires" and his latest

"Photon Phacets". This extraordinary work was described in detail from the master himself.

May 11, 2009
Don Palmieri, GG, MGA
Providing a Zero Tolerance Consumer Guarantee in a Litigious World

Don Palmieri, President of Gem Certification & Assurance Lab, Inc (GCAL), presented his unique view on diamond certification versus a diamond report. Hear how ISO 17025 Laboratory Accreditation plays a significant role in GCAL’s consistency and accuracy, Don discussed the obligations of an “Express Warranty” unknowingly provided by every retailer when they sell a diamond with a grading report. Also, the hottest topic in the coolest market: “The Effect of Fluorescence on diamond grading” was brought to light.

April 22, 2009
Donna Beaton, GG, Manager of Colored Stones
At GIA Laboratory, New York
Copper Bearing Tourmalines: The Beauty and The Controversy

A relative new-comer to the colored stone market, cuprian tourmaline and its best known trade variety

(Paraìba) has fascinated the industry with its meteoric rise. Donna reviewed mining locations, colors, nomenclature, treatments, and determining country of origin of the “Paraìba” variety.

March 10, 2009

Kathy E. Fox, Designer
The 24 Karats of Venetian BeadsThe 24 Karats of Venetian Beads

In the world of beads, genuine Venetian glass beads are unsurpassed in quality and reputation. Their inner beauty has made them desirable for hundreds of years and the art of making Venetian glass beads is alive and thriving today. The history goes back to the 1200’s and to the island of Murano and follows a course to Africa, Asia, and then around the world. We learned about the remarkable history of Venetian beads, how they are made, what they are made from, and how to spot the imitations that are creeping into the market today. The beautiful 24 karat gold inside Venetian beads is sure to inspire you for years to come.

February 19, 2009

Colin H. Winter, FGA, DGA
Mysteries of the Rainbow, Getting the Best From Your Spectroscope
Colin introduced the OPL spectroscope to the world 35 years ago in England, for his own students to fill an obvious gap in the range of entry level gem testing instruments and this original concept has blossomed over the years.This was an opportunity to get to grips with an instrument that most find intimidating at best and at worst impossible. Colin demonstrated in his own highly enthusiastic way, how to get the best from this much maligned and misunderstood instrument. Attendees came away wondering how they ever managed without this excellent piece of kit! Colin’s 36 years of teaching gemology to the coveted FGA level was well received.
‘A Students’ Guide to Spectroscopy’, a booklet produced by Colin & Hilary Winter, has all the techniques needed to master this instrument in detail, with full color illustrations of practically all of the spectra you are likely to see as a practicing gemologist. Even if you’ve never heard of this booklet, this workshop was an excellent opportunity to talk to the man himself; get up close and personal, ask questions galore, and even put him on the spot!

January 13, 2009

Branko Deljanin, B.Sc., GG, FGA, DUG, Director, EGL Canada
Identification of Laboratory-Grown Diamonds, Colored and Colorless from USA, Canada and Russia
EGL USA™ was the first laboratory to grade and mandate laser-inscription on laboratory-created diamonds in 2001. Are we gemologists able to screen, test and identify these HPHT and CVD laboratory grown diamonds? Branko shared with us the latest problems and solutions with the newest techniques.
SPECIAL: Nick Del Re, Manager of Gemological Services, EGL USA Lab, New York

gave an update on What’s New & Exciting in Gem Identification at EGL USA. This shorter but condensed presentation will cover research on pink diamonds, also the examination of one of the largest pearls in the world

as well as other gemological findings of artistic and scientific interest. The audience will discovered that some of these findings may lead to important issues that could potentially impact the Gem Trade in more ways than one.

December 2, 2008

Ulysses Grant Dietz, Senior Curator, Curator of the Decorative Arts, The Newark Museum
Putting Jewelry in its Place, Reclaiming Jewelry for the Decorative Arts

The general theme of the presentation was how a museum, focuses on the style of jewelry and how it links to broader decorative arts style trends of a period--from the Baroque to the present. From the GIA perspective, it is how Ulysses Grant Dietz, as a curator, views stones for what they represent stylistically and culturally--not their carat size, color or cut (unless cut is a stylistic marker). It was a most inquisitive lecture.

November 12, 2008

Wendi M. Mayerson, B.A., G.G., Elizabeth Quinn Darenius B.Sc., G.G., FGA, Christopher P. Smith, G.G.andC.R. “Cap” Beesley, G.G. of American Gemological Laboratories (AGL)

Hot Colored Stone Issues

The AGL staff gave a special talk on a variety of colored stone topics relevant to today’s marketplace. To begin Wendi Mayerson spoke about the recent controversy involving cobalt-coated tanzanite. Following this, Elizabeth Quinn Darenius provided an update on the proliferation of lead-glass filled rubies in the marketplace. Christopher P. Smith provided an overview of geographic/country-of-origin determinations. Closing the program, C.R. “Cap” Beesley discussed the recent legislation that was signed into law, banning the importation of Burmese rubies and jade. At the close of the meeting, they gave every attendee a composite ruby with an AGL report.

October 7, 2008

Tom Moses, G.G., Sr. V.P. and Akira Hyatt, GIA Laboratory and Research, NY

Update on GIA’s New Pearl Grading System and Pearl Treatments

This new complex world of pearls is ever changing with new products and enhancements. We as gemologists need to keep up to date as to identify and grade these gems. Appraisers need this information to further evaluate them. The group heard how these procedures are being addressed with GIA's newest Pearl Grading System from the top gun, Tom Moses.

September 17, 2008

Kathleen DiResta, Jewelry Designer
Jewelry Design Today
When does a talented artist decide it’s the right time to enter the real marketplace?
How does one know when to take the leap with one’s own creations? Emotions, monies, investments, how
to balance and just how to make it work are serious concerns.
Kathleen DiResta, an accomplished and successful jewelry designer has the answers to these questions.
She’s been there and done that. Come hear her story and secrets.

July 28, 2008

Antoinette Matlins, Professional Gemologist (PG)

The Changing World of Gem Treatments: A Glimpse Beneath the Surface

New gemstone treatments continue to enter the market and it seems there is no limit to the types of treatments being used and the number of gemstone varieties involved. The results of many treatments are permanent but many are not, and we're finding an alarming number of surface treatments being applied to colored gemstones and diamonds alike. Some of the most troublesome include "fancy-color" diamonds that are nothing more than off-color stones with a surface coating on the pavilion; surface coatings on off-color topaz that can transform them into very natural-looking--and much more costly--"pink topaz" and "precious" topaz, as well as the popular shades of "blue" topaz; and cobalt-coated "blue" sapphire that is anything but blue! Attendees heard about these and other surface treatments, examine stones, and learned some easy techniques to spot them.

July 9, 2008

Dayton Simmons, Owner of Silver Day Trading

Turquoise: Natural or Otherwise

The presentation focused on the fact that well over 95% of all turquoise currently available on the market is not NATURAL, which is defined as turquoise that is hard enough to cut and polish as it comes out of the ground. This includes rough material, cut cabochons, beads, carvings and finished jewelry. The vast majority of said material has gone through one of several hardening processes to make it commercially viable. The group became aware of the various turquoise treatments, learned about discerning natural turquoise from treated material and had an opportunity to see and feel the difference. Dayton displayed many samples of turquoise from the different mines and the various treatments.

May 14, 2008

Jacques Voorhees, President & C.E.O., Polygon

How Bricks & Mortar Retailers Can Compete Effectively Against The Internet Etailers
Retail store profit margins are under attack in the age of the Internet. Consumers used to come in with a
Rap sheet in their back pocket. Now they come in with printouts from internet e-tailers. Do you agree to
meet the price, and kill your margin? Do you preserve the margin and not make the sale? Is there a
third option?
Yes, there is. We learned how to avoid the “will you meet this price” trap. And also what you need to say to completely change the conversation, and earn the customer’s loyalty. Most importantly, learn how to preserve
your profit margin.

April 23, 2008

Donna Beaton, G.G. & Dr. Wuyi Wang

Current Issues & Updates: Colored Stones & Diamonds

Donna Beaton, Supervisor of Colored Stone Services at GIA, and Dr. Wuyi Wang, Research Scientist for GIA’s New York Laboratory, discussed various diamond treatments and synthetics, including updates on CVDs. With regard to colored stones, they shed light on lead glass filling in rubies, irradiated gemstones (blue topaz in particular), beryllium diffusion of corundum, and copper bearing tourmaline issues. The lecture ended with an update on GIA’s colored stone services.

March 12, 2008

Chris Del Gatto, CEO of Circa

CIRCA - The Only Brand in the Jewelry
You’ve seen their ads and as professionals within the estate jewelry world know, the one refrain you hear constantly within the industry is “you cannot find goods”. Circa does not have that problem due to their aggressive advertising campaign. Come peek inside the workings of CIRCA, which sources estate pieces directly from the public and brings them to market. We learned more about the benefits and features of their business model, as well as how they help retailers with inventory as well as close-out merchandise.

February 19, 2008

Dr. Rayner W. Hesse, Jr.
Jewelrymaking Through History
All art objects, whether they are paintings, pottery, sculpture, or any other media, represent the people who created them, and jewelry is no exception. Dr. Hesse spoke about jewelry making and jewelry usage, from ancient times to the present, describing the people, places, terms, and tools in the history of jewelry. Also he spoke about how the economic, geographic, political, religious, and social circumstances of a place and time influenced the materials that were used to make jewelry, the signs and symbols in that jewelry, as well as the way it was worn. More than just pretty pieces, jewelry often has great symbolism and tradition attached to it that is handed down through generations. Dr. Hesse brought samples and/or representations of the eras of jewelry making, focusing particularly on the jewelry of the last 200 years (as it is available and accessible). Members are invited to bring their own unique pieces to aid in the illustration and discussion.

January 15, 2008

Bryan Aderhold, G.G. and Arthur Groom of Eternity Natural Emeralds
Emerald Enhancements
Eternity Natural Emerald, headquartered in New Jersey, operates in New York, Afghanistan, Colombia, and Brazil. After purchasing emerald rough at the source locations (Colombia and Afghanistan), they cut emeralds in Brazil and enhance them in New York. Bryan and Arthur spoke about emerald enhancements and discussed Eternity Natural Emerald’s branded ExCel Process, which is the first and only colorless and stable enhancement for emerald.They emphasized how it can translate into increased emerald sales as well as improved
disclosure practices.

December 11, 2007

Joseph Menzie
Ethical & Fair Trade Corundum

Joe Menzie, former President of The International Colored Stone Association (ICA), presented on a number of salient topics regarding corundum. Joe began with a corundum update covering treatments such as diffusion and the introduction of lead glass ruby as well as fancy sapphire colors. Next, he discussed the pricing to origin relationship of corundum (for example Burma ruby and Kashmir sapphire) and touched upon other hot recent topics such as Paraiba tourmaline. Finally, the current situation in Burma & Kashmir as well as the issues of social responsibility and ethical consciousness were explored.

November 15, 2007

Joseph DuMouchelle, G.G.
Jewelry & Auction Review
Joseph DuMouchelle, G.G. is a Graduate Gemologist, Appraiser and Auctioneer with over 25 years of industry experience. His company specializes in the sale of fine gems and estate jewelry at auction in the International auction market. They have sold items belonging to grand estates, celebrities, stars, entertainers, private individuals, banks, attorneys, gemologists, appraisers, jewelers and wholesalers. Mr. DuMouchelle gave us a lecture with slides and a hands-on presentation review of great gems, jewels and objects d’arts sold at auction and privately over the past 10 years. We learned what is more valuable and how to find the best market to
sell in.

October 9, 2007

Peter J. Shemonsky, GG, Director of Circa Jewels
A History of Enamelwork in Jewelry
Peter J. Shemonsky, GG, is the Director of the San Francisco office and West Coast operations of Circa. He is the former Director of the Jewelry Department of Bonhams & Butterfields and has worked in various aspects of the jewelry industry including design, manufacturing, retailing and appraising. He is also currently one of the jewelry experts on the Antiques Roadshow.Peter presented a brief overview of enameling techniques and applications in jewelry along with the developmental history of this art form.

July 30, 2007

Jeff Pancis,
President & CEO of Pancis Gems
How Rainbows are Formed Underground
An insider's look at the rarefied air of color diamonds from Jeff Pancis, Pancis Gems, one of the leading market makers and early member of Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA). Why are color diamonds so rare? What diamond types are more likely to be color diamonds? Are color diamonds cut for weight or for color? What to look for in irradiated, natural and treated diamonds - this and so much more, ending with marketing strategies and statistics.

May 15, 2007

Patrick B. Ball, G.G.
Director, GIA Education Training Continuing Education
Patrick B. Ball, GG, gave a live demonstration of GIA on ITunes University and how the new Continuing Education Program will work for GIA Graduate Gemologists and Gemologists. Patrick covered the following topics:

  • What is Podcasting?
  • Discover “Inside GIA Education”
  • GIA’s new Continuing Education program
  • GIA on ITunes University – online live Dem
May 8, 2007

Liz Burnett, GG, RMVP
Director of Communications, EGL USA™, N.Y.
Lab Created Diamonds and Their Role in The Industry
Lab-grown diamonds have been around for decades, but only recently have we noticed the influx of these man-made diamonds in the wholesale and retail diamond markets. When we look at these lab-grown diamonds, it is not a question of who has mined these diamonds, but rather it has become a question of how old, or young, these diamonds are. With this lecture we will be looking at how lab-grown diamonds are really influencing our market and how we as gemologists, appraisers, wholesalers and retailers could deal with this trend.

April 20, 2007

Dan Campbell, GG, FGA, Director New York GIA-ED
Phenomenal Gems
You may deal with phenomenal gems in your business and you may have studied them at some point in your career. There’s a lot to know about these unusual materials, however. Like many other gemological topics, this one is dynamic. Our knowledge and understanding of phenomena, such as play of color and color change, is increasing. New sources, treatments and grading criteria further justify a review of this diverse gemstone category.

March 13, 2007

Reema Keswani, GG
GOLCONDA AND BEYOND
Diamonds & India: From Antiquity to Modern Day
During this lecture, we began our journey at the fabled mines of Golconda, which produced some of the most sought after diamonds, including the legendary Hope & the Kohinoor diamonds. We visited this dazzling region, long considered the jewel in India's crown, and the most important world source of diamonds for centuries. We will trace the history and lore of diamonds in India, from mining to influence abroad. We will end by exploring India's resurgent importance as a major cutting and manufacturing hub, which currently processes the largest volume of diamonds in the world.

February 21, 2007

Vivien Gornitz, Ph.D
Turquoise--Gem of Sky and Water
Turquoise has many ornamental uses and has a special relationship with the cultures of the Native Americans from the American Southwest. Vivien gave us an overview as well as the mineralogy, significant locations and related minerals regarding turquoise. Her lecture focused on the various cultures that have used turquoise for both its beauty and what was seen by them as its spiritual meanings.

January 9, 2007

Elyse Zorn Karlin, Publisher, Adornment
Chinese Kingfisher Feather Ornaments
Beautiful objects for personal adornment decorated with kingfisher feathers - jewelry, hair ornaments, headdresses and more have been a favorite of the Chinese for several thousand years. Yet little is known about them in the West. In the 1970s, after China began trading with the west again, these ornaments were brought into the US and turn up at auction and in private collections. A beautiful array of these items were shown.

December 5, 2006

Donna Baker, GG, President of GIA
Industry Trends and GIA's Response
The gem and jewelry business is facing many challenges today, ranging from consumer confidence to geographical shifts in production and consumption to the fundamental economic and value propositions. GIA's core mission is to ensure the public trust in gems and jewelry through research, education, laboratory services, and instrumentation. In being responsive to its core mission, GIA's service will continue to develop and evolve as it meets these challenges.

November 15, 2006

Eric Hoffman
Understanding Old Chinese Jades
Every GIA member is knowledgeable about jadeite, the type of jade usually seen in jewelry. But nephrite jade-- the remarkable material carved by the Chinese for over 5000 years-- is not as widely known. Mr. Hoffman's illustrated talk helped answer the essential questions about old Chinese jades:
1) Is it true jade or one of the many pseudo-jades?
2) Is the carving Chinese?
3) The most difficult question of all-- is it as old as the seller claims?

October 11, 2006

Abraham Stern, CEO IDEX Online
E-Commerce: The Changing Face of the Diamond and
Jewelry Industry in the WEB Age
Mr. Abraham Stern, the new CEO of IDEX Online covered how the Internet is impacting the B2B diamond trading side of the business. He talked about what advantages professionals have using IDEX.

September 13, 2006

Richard Buonomo, GG, CG Richard Buonomo Ltd.

The Asscher Cut Diamond - Emerald Cut with a Soul
The material presented focused on defining the Asscher Cut and what proportions render some of them so especially prismatic. Attention was
paid to the history of the Asscher Cut, current market trends and how to describe and sell Asscher cut Diamonds. A power-point presentation AND samples were brought to examine up close!

July 31, 2006

Albert Gilbertson, GG, Research Associate, and Barak Green, Communication Manager for the GIA Gem Lab GIA Diamond Cut Grading Seminar
Mr. Gilbertson and Mr. Green gave us an update about the new GIA Diamond Cut Grading System for Round Brilliant Cut diamonds. The history and research of how to judge brightness, fire, and scintillation, and how proportions, polish and symmetry relate to the final cut grade were revitalized.

June 13, 2006

Arthur Skuratowicz, GJG
Practical Approach to Jewelry Sketching
We learned quick jewelry sketching techniques for the bench jeweler, sales associate and everybody els in less than an hour. Fast enough to capture the idea, thorough enough to get the piece made.
If you’ve ever had an idea about a jewelry design but just could not remember it long enough to make it or describe it to a jeweler this was the presentation for you.
These techniques apply primarily to jewelry and gems but are based on basic drawing and illustrating principles. They work well during a sales presentation as well as for just “doodling” around. It’s also a great starting point for someone wanting to continue on as a jewelry designer. Structural as well as artistic topics were discussed.

May 17, 2006

Carolyn S. Jacoby, GG, Senior Representative, South Sea Pearl Consortium
The Five Virtues of South Sea Cultured Pearls
You know the 4C’s of diamonds, now finally we learned the proper way to assess the quality characteristics of white South Sea cultured pearls. We optimized our buying and selling by knowing what differentiates luster, complexion, size, shape and color. WE learned what makes these pearls so remarkable, the inspiration for world renowned designers and the aspiration for jewelry aficionados.

April 19, 2006

GIA Gem Laboratory Identification and Research Team
Chris Smith, GG, Director, Identification Services
Ilene Reinitz, PhD, Manager, Research and Development
Wendi Mayerson, GG, Staff Gemologist, Identification
Highlights From the GIA-GTL
Gemologists today face a wide array of treatments and synthetics, with more challenges hitting the market each year. Some of these treatments are detectable via standard gemological testing, if you know what to look for. Some treatments can only be identified using advanced testing equipment and therefore need to be sent to a lab. There are some cases, in which a gem’s identification – whether it is natural or synthetic, treated by nature or man – is undeterminable. Knowing when to send a stone to a lab is important, as well as knowing what to expect as a result from the lab. GIA's cutting edge Identification and Research team discussed GIA's new and enhanced report services for both colored stones and diamonds. Several samples of these reports were provided for inspection. Also, we received insight into GIA's cut grade and recent modifications to the reports from the source.

March 15, 2006

G. Max Bernheimer, International Department Head of Antiquities Christie’s, New York
Ancient Greek Gems and Jewelry
This was a survey of the history of the subject, based in large part on objects that have been offered at auction with Christie’s, both in New York and London, concentrating primarily on the Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic periods, that is, the 7th to the 1st centuries B.C. We viewed some splendid examples of the goldsmith’s art, which is what normally comes to mind when we think of jewelry- but we will also looked at a wide array of engraved gems, which are small stones carved for use as seals.

February 15, 2006

Cecilia L. Gardner, CEO of JVC
Legal Compliance in the Jewelry Industry
The Final Answer on The Patriot Act! There have been adds-on to The Patriot Act and we in the jewelry industry need to know exactly how they effect US, retailers, manufacturers, designers, and jewelers.Ms. Gardner updated us and shared cautionary tales from JVC arbitration and discussed the processes involved.The setting was a roundtable with lots of questions about our obligations and fears of the ever growing Big Brother.

January 25, 2006

Maggie Campbell Pedersen, FGA
Gems For Life
The talk covered some of the more common gem materials of plant and animal origin - the so-called 'organics' - for example amber, coral, ivories and tortoise shell. Guidelines were given on how to identify them and distinguish them from their imitations.

January 11, 2006

Sharrie Woodring, GG, FGA, Senior Gemologist Gem Certification and Appraisal Lab
The Process of Detection in a Gem Laboratory
Have you ever wondered what happens in a gem laboratory? Ms. Woodring took us step-by-step through the diamond grading and identification processes at GCAL’s laboratory. She discussed some of the challenges facing the diamond industry today, such as the identification of treated and synthetic diamonds. You will learn about the methods and equipment GCAL is using to ensure the accurate identification of all the diamonds they certify. The focus will be on explaining the functions and uses of different types of instruments including the DiamondSure™, DiamondView™, FTIR and Raman spectrophotometers.

December 6, 2005

Richard Drucker, GG, Gemworld International Laboratories

Cut Grading and Light Performance of Diamonds--the New Frontier
Diamond performance is the new topic that has the industry in a buzz. The GIA and the AGS have researched and studied these topics leading to some new reporting on cut grades of diamonds. Richard has also entered this arena with his own laboratory, Gemworld International Laboratories in New York City. He sorted out what is being done in the industry, cleared up the mystery surrounding these topics and showed what his laboratory is doing with new state-of-the-art technology.

November 15, 2005

Kate and Fred Pearce, Pearce Design

Lapidary Arts Then and Now,"B" Chart Beauties and Other Beauties Come of Age
Fred and Kate Pearce have been designing and making unique jewelry since the 1960s. They have a reputation for creating unusual pieces incorporating unusual materials. They presented a story of the transition in design of both new materials as well as new contemporary lapidary arts. We were treated to a colorful powerpoint presentation of unique gemstone designs and we also were able to examine pieces personally.

October 11, 2005

Diana Singer, G.G. D&E Singer, Inc.
Original vs. Repro
Reproduction estate jewelry touches every part of the market today. Diana Singer, a third generation estate jewelry dealer, showed us the difference between original antique pieces and the repros that we encounter daily. We learned how to avoid the pitfalls that could cost money or your reputation - or both!

September 13, 2005

Bob Frank, Vice President Jewelers' Security Alliance
Crime Prevention 101
The material discussed during this presentation is designed to raise the security awareness of a person involved in the business of selling jewelry, regardless of their title, whether owner, sales associate, manager, etc, and to make their work environment a safer place. Topics for discussion covered how to spot the bad guys/gals, how to act during a confrontation with a criminal, what not to do, when to call the police, and how to discourage a criminal from targeting you. Statistics on jewelry crime in the US were discussed. Attendees learned important strategies such as how to survive an armed robbery, how to set up an internal alert system and how to make your store look unappealing to a thief. Actual footage on video was shown of robberies in progress.

May 17, 2005

Nicholas Del Re, GG, BSc, Mnger. of Gemological Services at The European Gemological Lab in NYC

Faceted Diamond Patents
At the turn of this century, the year 2000, there was a flood of intellectual property awarded in Utility and Design Patents concerning faceted diamonds. The focus was on faceted gems primarily issued in the USPTO (United States Patent and Trade-mark Organization) as well as some issued from other worldwide Patent Systems existing under WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization). The originality of recent properties compared with those from the past century was examined, reviewed and illustrated. Topics that were considered:The first patented diamond cuts; How new diamond cuts are patented; How patented and branded cuts relate to
each other.

April 21, 2005

Don Kay of Mason-Kay:

Appraising Jadeite Jade
Mr. Kay discussed specific appraisal techniques for jadeite jade - when to go high, when to go low and when to "stay away until further testing is done." What constitutes value and , conversely, what detracts from value is just one of the many considerations that appraisers need to know. Various forms of jade were presented (cabochons, beads, bangles and specialty items). All colors were considered as well as recent changes in the market.

March 16 , 2005

Gary Roskin, FGA, GG, Gemstone Editor of JCK Magazine

Carbon Vapor Diamonds (CVD): Diamond Coated Tools, Synthetic Diamond Jewelry and
Diamond Computer Chips
Cultured, synthetic, or created...gem quality lab grown diamond is here to stay, but not for the reason you think. The gem business is good, but it's not what the growers of synthetic diamond are after. Think about the creation of the world's most powerful computer chip the size of the head of a pin. Gary Roskin pointed out what's new in synthetic diamond manufacturing, which included nomenclature, an update on HPHT, and the CVD growth processes. Then we were given a more detailed look at the various uses of these products as gemstones for jewelry, memorial, diamond coatings for highly advanced tools, and diamond plates for the real deal - computer electronics.

February 15 , 2005

Edward Rosenzweig , Edwards Minerals, LLC.

Gem Crystals - Collectible Beauty

Why are mineral specimens collected? What are their value factors (their 4 c's)? How can understanding gem crystals help the gemologist or jeweler? Mr. Rosenzweig, a dealer and lifelong collector of minerals, presented a connoisseur's and gemologist's view of the market, using photographs from his collection and inventory. He discussed how fine mineral specimens can be used in gem and jewelry marketing - both advertising and merchandising. In addition, he brought some specimens for a hands-on discussion. Attendees brought in their mineral specimens for "show and tell."

January 12 , 2005

Camilla Dietz Bergeron, Camilla Dietz Bergeron, LTD

From Stocks to Rocks

This incredible woman dared to make a mid-life career change - going from partner at a prestigious brokerage/investment banking firm to proprietor of an antique, period & estate jewelry business, and catering to retail customers and the trade. Ms. Bergeron discussed similarities and differences between the two and offered tips for differentiating yourself from the competition and how to build a successful business. She brought specimens for a hands-on discussion. Attendees brought in their mineral specimens for "show and tell."

December 7, 2004

Charles A. Meyer, Vice President, Lazare Kaplan International, Inc.

Bryant Linares President, Apollo Diamond

Mr. Meyer updated the membership on the progress of a well known but non-mainstream diamond, Bellataire diamonds: the growth of the business, market/trade acceptance, and competitive HPHT products. The presentation included a review of the HPHT process. Finally, Mr. Meyer spoke a bit about branded diamonds, a product positioned somewhat differently now that the initial Supplier of Choice sweepstakes are over.
Mr. Meyer shared the spotlight with Bryant Linares, President of Apollo Diamond. Apollo is growing diamonds using a CVD process (Carbon Vapor Deposit), which has the potential, over time, to produce colorless, clean diamonds over one carat. Mr. Linares discussed the process, product attributes, and different potential applications for the product, focusing, though, on the gem and jewelry markets. He provided a preview of the marketing plan for the product, as well as the steps being taken to protect the industry through identification and disclosure.

November 9, 2004

Howard Rubin, GG, GemDialogue Color Systems
Workshop on GemDialogue, Color Description for Gemstones and Fancy Color Diamonds
GemDialogue color charts, Ott lighting and stones were provided to learn why matching against an organized set of colors can beat verbal color description every time. We made 25 stones match against the charts to test for consistency. It was evident why this system is so popular.

October 12 , 2004

Kevin Zavian, Cluster Jewelers & Antiques Roadshow Participant
Workshop on Wristwatches

With plenty of hands-on material, Kevin Zavian showed us how to be more comfortable in dealing/handling/appraising watches - how to examine, grade them and tell the age. Also how to tell what's right and wrong with a watch.

September 14, 2004

Henry & Stanley Grossbard of Radiant Cut Diamond Corp.
Understanding Radiant Cuts
Henry Grossbard and his son, Stanley, increased our understanding of Radiant Cut Diamonds through an informative discussion/seminar, which provided an in-depth understanding of how to properly evaluate and distinguish the cut and beauty of each Radiant. It enabled attendees to answer questions from consumers that challenge even the most educated gemologists.

August 17, 2004

Arthur Anton Skuratowicz, CGA NJA GJG (GIA)

Anatomy of a Jewelry Appraisal
This discussion covered the many components of a professionally prepared jewelry insurance appraisal. Though insurance appraisal practices were covered, other intended uses were compared. The minimal content of a jewelry insurance appraisal was itemized and analyzed based on the USPAP (Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice) as well as requirements of several appraisal associations. This is an ongoing discussion/analysis of appraisal practice and is based on research used to publish numerous articles in Professional Jeweler and JCK magazines. Copies of the articles were distributed.

July 26, 2004

Anne Dale, FGA, Director Gem-A USA
Michael Cohn, Director of the Jewelry Dept., Fashion Institute of Technology

The famed FGA program comes to America from England with its headquarters in Louisiana and an Allied Teaching Center right here in New York City at FIT. Participants in this meeting learned more about the Gem-A program and how it is such a dramatically different gemology program. The course book was available for perusal with Ms. Dale and Mr. Cohn as they answered many questions. A small selection of Gem-A products were presented for an intimate hands-on. Our speakers donated to our scholarship fund auction an OPL hand held spectroscope and several ink pens from Harrod's.

April 28, 2004
The GIA Gem Trade Laboratory Gem Identification Team

The Manhattan Chapter presented an evening with the best of the best in the gemological world, the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory Gem Identification team. Included were Ilene Reinitz, PhD, Manager Research and Development; Matt Hall, MA, Supervisor, Analytical Equipment; Wuyi Wang, PhD, Research Scientist; and Wendi Mayerson, GG, Staff Gemologist, Identification.

HPHT, CVD, KM, BE - the alphabet goes on! Gemologists today face a wide array of treatments and synthetics, with more challenges hitting the market each year. Some of these treatments are detectable via standard gemological testing, if you know what to look for. Some treatments can only be identified using advanced testing equipment and therefore need to be sent to a lab. There are some cases, in which a gem's identification - whether it is natural or synthetic, treated by nature or man - is undeterminable. Knowing when to send a stone to a lab is important, as well as knowing what to expect as a result from the lab was impressed upon the audience.

GIA's cutting edge Identification and Research team discussed a variety of hot topics including some of the methods currently used to identify treated versus untreated diamonds and gemstones.

March 16, 2004

Nu Age Technologies, Inc.

Aaron Ratsaby and his sons, Dan and Ilan
Color Enhanced Diamonds
We were given an inside look at the company that has been coloring diamonds for the diamond industry worldwide for the past 25 years. Technology-Research and Development-Pricing-Marketing-Safety- Certificate Programs-Potential Markets-Education-FAQ-Color Charts- Disclosure-New Colors-Diamond Care-yes, all of it! We came prepared with questions and concerns and brought our loupes to view samples the GG way.

January 13, 2004

Catherine Russo-Epstein, GG

Gems and Crystals in the New Age

Can wearing a ruby necklace really give you more energy? Will putting an amethyst under your pillow help you to sleep better? We found out the facts and folklore behind this increasingly popular trend and learned how it can mean more sales for us. People have been fascinated with the healing properties of gems and crystals for centuries. We kept our minds open and explored the metaphysical properties and learned:
  • How the different crystal systems correspond to the seven chakras (energy centers)
  • Explored subtle energies of gems and crystals
  • Used our knowledge to expand our businesses
  • Healing properties of Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, Diamond and Pearl as well as many, many more!

We looked at a different side of the jewelry industry and learned some ways to enhance our own lives.

December 3, 2003

Serge Boro, "Mr. Ideal Cut", V.P. of Lazare Kaplan
Ideal Cut - The end of season special - Lazare Kaplan International!
Mr. Boro gave us the different definitions of an ideal cut that make LKI diamonds so different from any other cut diamond - proportions vs. performance and how that effects the marketing and branding aspects. What are the benefits of ideal cuts? His lecture extended into how to evaluate AND value pricing. Mr. Boro had the answers to the many questions that were asked.

After a slide presentation regarding mining these beautiful stones, Mr. Boro gave a demonstration on cutting and cleaving a diamond - yes, a demo! Right there at the National Arts Club. You should have been there!

November 19, 2003

Rob Bates, Senior Editor, JCK

The Buzz on Diamonds
The Kimberley Process. Supplier of Choice. HPHT. There is a lot going on in the diamond industry these days, and it's not always easy comprehending it all or keeping up. JCK senior editor Rob Bates, who has covered the diamond industry for ten years, explained recent developments from what is going on with De Beers to treatments to the internet, in a concise, easy -to-understand format.

October 14, 2003
Carolyn Jacoby, GG, Manager, Australian Pearl Centre (USA)
Pearls in Paradise, an Adventure Continues

The adventure continued from Ms. Jacoby's initial presentation in 2001. Jacoby guided us, via her personal slides, along the pristine waters of the Indian Ocean off the shores of NW Australia to remote pearl farms. We got a bird's eye views from aboard 1947 Grumman Mallard seaplanes, meticulously restored providing the only means of logistical support to isolated water and land based farms. Views from the famous Paspaley pearl room in Darwin where pearls are sorted into remarkable strands, pairs and loose lots for the wholesale market were also shown.

September 17, 2003

Cindy Edelstein, Jewelry Resource, Inc.

Increase Your Design Vocabulary - Techniques, Trends and Monikers of Today's
Most Exciting Designers

Designer advocate expert Cindy Edelstein showed us the difference between mokume gane and shakudo and between a Kretchmer and a Sawyer and a whole lot more in her signature design lecture. Known for her unique style and fun-filled presentation, Cindy has been shining a light on the contemporary designer movement for sixteen years as a writer, lecturer, trade show producer and business consultant.
Cindy brought with her slides of the work of nearly 100 contemporary masters so as to increase our design vocabulary and awareness. Known for her unique style and fun-filled presentation, Cindy has been a shining a light on the contemporary designer movement for sixteen years as a writer, lecturer, trade show producer and business consultant.

July 28, 2003

Deborah Yonick, Panel Moderator
Panelists: Peggy Jo Donohue, Editor in Chief, Professional Jeweler
Jill Newman, NY based journalist
Robert Weldon, Director of Photography & Senior Writer, Professional Jeweler
Bill Kalina, photojournalist
How to Woo and Wow the Press!

In 'How to Woo and Wow the Press', the panel addressed how to put a news spin on the events, products, services, and people that make your business to enhance your ability to achieve free publicity. Meeting attendees got to chew the fat with a panel of editors, writers, photographers and marketing consultants available to share their insights into effective media relations. The panel discussed press releases—the good, the bad and the ugly; how to achieve an interesting news angle or photo opportunity to lure the media; how to approach and court the press; and much more.

May 15, 2003

Shirley J. Boncheff, GG

Jyotish Gems of America

In the "Healing Properties of Gemstones, Shirley J. Boncheff addressed the following questions: Where does the knowledge of crystal healing originate? What gemstones are neo-medical? Can wearing a pearl help soothe the mind? Can coral enhance energy and courage? Are sizes and shapes important? What is the relationship between the stone and the human body?

April 29, 2003

Kevin Krajick Author, Lecturer, Adventurer

The Hunt for North American Diamonds

In "The Hunt for North American Diamonds", Kevin Krajick looked at the grand 450-year obsession with finding a North American diamond source, extending back to the earliest European explorers, continuing on through the Wild West and other periods of history, and culminating with the recent opening of rich diamond mines in the Northwest Territories of Canada. He outlined the scientific secrets of diamond prospecting; and since this is New York, he discussed the surprising number of New Yorkers (and New York locales) involved.

April 8, 2003

Dan Campbell, GG, Director, NY GIA Education

RES (Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire) - The Latest

Synthetics, Fracture Filling & Treatments - Oh My! The trio of challenges that all gemologists face no matter where they are in the jewelry industry. Educator Campbell gave us up-to-date information on the latest developments, the importance of treatment disclosures and how to identify using the classroom lab equipment. The lecture also included information relative to the supply of ruby, emeralds and sapphires from various sources and factors which have affected the market for these three gemstones.

March 25, 2003

Gary W. Bowersox, American Gem Trader, President, GeoVision, Inc.

Afghanistan Gems & Jewelry

The personal and professional adventure began about 32 years ago, when the intrepid Gary Bowersox went to Afghanistan to help develop its gem resources. The country had long been a producer of fine lapis, and exciting new finds were popping up fairly often. International demand for colored gems was also booming. So the future looked bright.
Then Afghanistan descended into hell. At first the government fought opposition from all sides, and finally toppled. In 1979 the Soviet Union invaded. After the Soviets left, equally fierce civil conflict spread and the infamous Taliban regime rose to power.
Through it all, often in great danger, Mr. Bowersox kept coming back - and gems ended up playing a positive role in the nation's history. Today, he is confident that gems can be part of a better tomorrow for Afghanistan and its people. In addition to buying and selling, he works with Afghan miners to maximize this important source of jobs and revenue.

March 11, 2003

Ute Klein Bernhardt, Gem Carver

The Art of Gem Engraving - 6000BC-2000AD

Trained in Idar-Oberstein and working in the United States, Ute Klein Bernhardt demonstrates how fine an art gem engraving can be. Arm chair travel through centuries with Ms. Bernhardt with not only an excellent slide presentation but also hands-on with samples of her own work.

January 8, 2003

Patricia Kiley Faber, GG, Aaron Faber Gallery

Identifying Contemporary Studio Jewelry Makers: 1950-1990

The American Studio Jewelry movement- from modernist jewelry to today's designer brands-emerged at mid-century and continues to today.
What makes this jewelry collectible and which names should you look for?
Is it art or is it jewelry? A review was given of the "Seven Rules of Collecting
Studio Jewelry"and wonderful visuals of this very expressive jewelry field were shown.

December 4, 2002

Installation of Officers and

2002: A Gemological Odyssey, New Challenges, Perspectives, and Solutions

The new officers were installed, Merle S. Koblenz, GG as President, Irma Davidson-Gomez as Vice President, Gail B. Levine, GG as Secretary, and Sara Wirnik, GG as Treasurer.

GREGORY E. SHERMAN, FGA, DGA, GG, EGL USA Director of Marketing & Education and BRANKO DELJANIN, B.Sc., FGA, DGA, GG, DUG, EGL Canadian Director of Gem Ident. & Research spoke of the advances in technology and how global events have permanently altered the gemological landscape. They discussed the key gemological issues as seen from the perspective of one of the largest international gemological laboratories. These experts from EGL USA and EGL Canada talked about new diamond treatments, synthetic diamonds, HPHT and rough diamond research, and now pricing. EGL brought a special guest from Thailand, Ted Themelis, Gemological Researcher, Author, and Expert on Corundum Treatment who presented "A View from Thailand on Treated Padparascha, Blue Sapphires and Rubies". He shared his views and treatment technique for bulk diffusion of corundum.

November 19, 2002

Karen Rice, GG, Suna Brothers

Karen Rice, FGA, gemologist for Suna Bros. Inc in NYC conducted a lecture on Pink Diamonds for the Manhattan Chapter of the GIA-Alumni on November 19th at The National Arts Club. Suna Bros is one of the two American jewelry manufacturers to employ pink diamonds in their jewelry. The most rare diamonds in the world are red/pink diamonds. The only place they come from is the Argyle Diamond Mine in the remote NW Kimberly region of Australia. 10,000cts out of 30 million carats mined there are pink. It has not been officially determined which minerals and effects cause the pink color. The pink colors range in shades with the most intense saturations being the most rare. They can cost 10 times more than a similar colorless diamond. How perfect to have had this timely lecture after the Pink Diamond article in Gems & Gemology!

October 22, 2002
Dr. James Shigley, Director, GIA Research, Carlsbad

To an audience ranging from students to industry old-timers, GIA's Dr. James Shigley presented a "progress report" on two very important research projects that have unfolded over the past few years. First he described the various characteristics of near colorless, yellow to green, pink and blue diamond High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) treated diamonds. The second topic was the analysis of diamond cut. The research incorporated quantification of light return, brilliance, scintillation and facet symmetry. As the researchers finish the individual components of the project; GIA is considering a new cut grading system.

October 16, 2002
Donna Beaton, GG, Gemologist at AGTA Gemological Testing Center

October 16, Donna Beaton G.G., gemologist at AGTA Gemological Testing Center, spoke about padparadscha sapphire- the history of the colored sapphire, methods to define the stone, treatment, and its place in the market. The color of Padparadscha which means, "Lotus Flower", is presently defined as : pinkish orange to orangish pink; light to medium tone; low to intense saturation. This definition reflects the colors that can be found in Sri Lankan sapphires, where padparadscha has traditionally been from. They are also found in Madagascar and East Africa.

Of great concern now is a certain type of treatment called "bulk diffusion" which is not well received by stone dealers. The lab has learned how to test for these stones and has shared this knowledge with us.

September 17, 2002

Steve & Marlene Goodrich, Momminia
Beads Galore

On September 17, Steve Goodrich, from Momminia gave a lecture titled "Beads Galore". Steve and his wife have a bead business where they sell individual beads as well as necklaces which are designed and manufactured by Steve's wife Marlene Goodrich. Steve discussed the history of beads throughout the ages.
Steve also talked about a few popular beads. One is the mosaic bead which is formed from drawn glass. Another, the Chevron, was the most popular Venetian bead. It was invented in 1490 and the initial Chevrons were made with 7 layers of glass. Another popular bead is the eye bead. This is popular because it is viewed as providing protection from the evil eye.

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