Meeting Notes

August 19, 2010
Rare Pearls & New Developments in the Pearl Industry
Blaire Beavers
Pearl scholar Blaire Beavers explored jewelry-quality rare pearls and the latest developments in cultured and natural pearls, including pearls from the Nautilus pompilius cephalopod and the growing threat of natural pearl fraud. The economic downturn and good old-fashioned ingenuity have combined to create some of the most interesting and beautiful pearls of 2010.

July 26, 2010
A Love Affair with Gemstones
Robert Bentley
For 30 years now, Robert has collaborated with some of the most talented lapidary artists and jewelers in the world in an attempt to bring fresh design perspectives and the beauty of the mineral kingdom to the world. Rebelling against the idea of " Semi Precious/Precious Stones " Robert Bentley Company"s mission has always been to present the hierarchy of all colored gemstone species.

May 11, 2010
Update on Synthetic Color Stones
Donna Beaton, GG, and the NY Laboratory Staff
Synthetic gemstones have been around for a lot longer than most people realize. We reviewed the history of methods of manufacture, what is commonly available, and some characteristic features. Unusual and common “case studies” from the lab will be presented. In addition, we looked at the new developments in synthetics, on both the research and commercial front.

April 13, 2010
Enhanced Colorless, Pink and Yellow Diamonds Today: Process and Identification
Dusan Simic, B.Sc., FGG, SGC
This presentation covered the equipment used for HPHT treatment (and irradiation). Also covered were the steps in processing and distribution at Suncrest Diamonds, USA, and the other major companies. Dusan showed us samples before and after treatment and provided a description of the Standard and Advanced Techniques used. With treated diamonds becoming more prevalent in our industry, this was a great opportunity to learn about identification, disclosure and the marketing of enhanced diamonds available today.

March 10, 2010
Hot Topics in The Diamond and Jewelry Industry
Rob Bates, Sr. Editor of JCK
This presentation focused on the Hottest Topics in the Diamond and Jewelry Industry. This most informed industry reporter and JCKonline blogger discussed  how the industry was impacted by the "Great Recession"
and what challenges it faces in the years ahead.

February 17, 2010
5 Decades of Contemporary American Jewelry Design
Marlene Richey
Marlene Richey has been an active participant in the jewelry world since the mid-60’s when she was studying jewelry design in college. In this presentation she chronicled the contemporary American jewelry design movement from a personal inside perspective as well as historical context, covering the worlds of fashion, art, craft and fine jewelry. Marlene took us up to 2010 and explained the extraordinary changes and monumental influences that are occurring right this moment.
Marlene offered her book "Profiting By Design: A Jewelry Maker's Guide to Business Success" for the Eunice Miles Scholarship Fund Raffle. They were also for sale and signed by the author.

January 14, 2010
Business in the New Reality:
Innovative Strategies to Take You From 'What IS' to 'What IF' 
Kate Peterson of Performance Concepts
What used to be good enough is simply not good enough any more! You've done all the logical and sensible things to streamline, tighten, and evolve your business.
Now its time to look to your future - to transform your thinking - to find the competitive advantage that will take you to the top.
Top companies know that innovative thinking is one key value component that can't be outsourced. The best run businesses are those with deep cultures of creative problem-solving.
In this lively, interactive presentation, we were challenged to look for new solutions to the day to day issues that threaten to de-rail our forward motion. Got a situation worth of study? We came prepared to put it out there and let the group , armed with newly found skills and open minds, discuss the options!

December 8, 2009
A Magical Mystery Tour of Natural Color Diamonds
with your guide Alan Bronstein
Alan Bronstein is a diamond expert and trader in natural color diamonds for 30 years. He is the collector of The Aurora Pyramid of Hope and The Aurora Butterfly of Peace. Join Alan on a photo journey that takes us through the exotic realm of diamond colors.
Picture yourself on a boat on a river with tangerine trees and marmalade skies…

November 10, 2009
Howard Rubin, GG
Do You Use Price Lists? What They Do and Don't Tell You!
Most of us use price lists, but a quick comparison of a few lists only asks more questions than they answer. We learned how to look at a price list and have it make sense. We saw the comparisons and were surprised.

October 14, 2009
Cindy Edelstein & Frank Stankus
BRILLIANCE! Masterpieces from the American Jewelry Design Council
If someone asked you to create a jewel about water what would you design? How about "peekaboo"?
Attendees were treated to what two dozen master jewelers did to interpret these and so many more ideas when authors Cindy Edelstein and Frank Stankus shared the visual bounty of their book "BRILLIANCE! Masterpieces of the American Jewelry Design Council."
The AJDC is a non-for-profit arts organization comprised of some of our industry's most talented artists -- masters like Henry Dunay and Jose Hess, Michael Good, Michael Bondanza and Whitney Boin to fine
craftsmen like Kent Raible, Alan Revere and Falcher Fusager.
The book is a compilation of a decade's worth of their one-of-a-kind projects whereby each year a theme is chosen -- often one word or concept -- and each member spins their own interpretation in metal and stone.
The collection is a glorious love-letter to the art of fine jewelry. It's a study in beauty, theory, concept and interpretation. Many of the projects are fine jewels ready to be worn to a gala or even the office. While others are more abstract and less literally jewelry.
This collection was explored with the authors and their stories of the projects, the artists and the organization.  Also explored were the concepts behind these beautiful jewels and more about the men and women who created them and thus a little piece of history in the process.

October 8, 2009
Rui Galopim de Carvalho, Executive Liaison Ambassador ICA - International Colored Gemstone Association
The Impact of Brazilian Gemstones in 18th century Jewelry Design
The history of jewelry is intimately attached to the history of the use of gems throughout times. As an example, the opening of the sea route to India in the 16th Century had a huge impact due to the more readily available gems produced in the Orient. The discovery of the new gem occurrences in Brazil during the 18th century, namely diamond, imperial and colorless topaz, amethyst and chrysoberyl, completely changed the concept of jewelry, resulting in the massive use of new coming gems and color. Due to the Brazil connection, Portuguese jewelry became unique and differs greatly from the European production of the time. In this presentation, we travelled back in time from medieval times towards the early 19th century, explaining how the new sources and trade routes affected jewelry design, with illustrations of magnificent Portuguese jewelry.

September 15, 2009
Robert Lucien May, G.G., Executive Director National Color Diamond Association (NCDIA)
“The Language of Color” - Natural Color Diamonds
Whether you are a retailer, dealer, manufacturer or appraiser, natural color diamonds can help you earn higher profits and differentiate yourself in the current market. We learned how current brands, designers and manufacturers have embraced this category and enhanced their bottom line.

July 27, 2009
Michael Dyber
Gems of The Mind
Michael M. Dyber is an internationally recognized gem designer. His innovative designs and techniques have changed the perception of gem design forever. This presentation covered the development and application of Michael’s three award winning signature techniques, the "Dyber Optic Dish", "Luminaires" and his latest
"Photon Phacets". This extraordinary work was described in detail from the master himself.

May 11, 2009
Don Palmieri, GG, MGA
Providing a Zero Tolerance Consumer Guarantee in a Litigious World
Don Palmieri, President of Gem Certification & Assurance Lab, Inc (GCAL), presented his unique view on diamond certification versus a diamond report. Hear how ISO 17025 Laboratory Accreditation plays a significant role in GCAL’s consistency and accuracy, Don discussed the obligations of an “Express Warranty” unknowingly provided by every retailer when they sell a diamond with a grading report. Also, the hottest topic in the coolest market: “The Effect of Fluorescence on diamond grading” was brought to light.

April 22, 2009
Donna Beaton, GG, Manager of Colored Stones
At GIA Laboratory, New York
Copper Bearing Tourmalines: The Beauty and The Controversy
A relative new-comer to the colored stone market, cuprian tourmaline and its best known trade variety
(Paraìba) has fascinated the industry with its meteoric rise. Donna reviewed mining locations, colors, nomenclature, treatments, and determining country of origin of the “Paraìba” variety.

March 10, 2009
Kathy E. Fox, Designer
The 24 Karats of Venetian BeadsThe 24 Karats of Venetian Beads
In the world of beads, genuine Venetian glass beads are unsurpassed in quality and reputation. Their inner beauty has made them desirable for hundreds of years and the art of making Venetian glass beads is alive and thriving today. The history goes back to the 1200’s and to the island of Murano and follows a course to Africa, Asia, and then around the world. We learned about the remarkable history of Venetian beads, how they are made, what they are made from, and how to spot the imitations that are creeping into the market today. The beautiful 24 karat gold inside Venetian beads is sure to inspire you for years to come.

February 19, 2009
Colin H. Winter, FGA, DGA
Mysteries of the Rainbow, Getting the Best From Your Spectroscope
Colin introduced the OPL spectroscope to the world 35 years ago in England, for his own students to fill an obvious gap in the range of entry level gem testing instruments and this original concept has blossomed over the years.This was an opportunity to get to grips with an instrument that most find intimidating at best and at worst impossible. Colin demonstrated in his own highly enthusiastic way, how to get the best from this much maligned and misunderstood instrument. Attendees came away wondering how they ever managed without this excellent piece of kit! Colin’s 36 years of teaching gemology to the coveted FGA level was well received.
‘A Students’ Guide to Spectroscopy’, a booklet produced by Colin & Hilary Winter, has all the techniques needed to master this instrument in detail, with full color illustrations of practically all of the spectra you are likely to see as a practicing gemologist. Even if you’ve never heard of this booklet, this workshop was an excellent opportunity to talk to the man himself; get up close and personal, ask questions galore, and even put him on the spot!

January 13, 2009
Branko Deljanin, B.Sc., GG, FGA, DUG, Director, EGL Canada
Identification of Laboratory-Grown Diamonds, Colored and Colorless from USA, Canada and Russia
EGL USA™ was the first laboratory to grade and mandate laser-inscription on laboratory-created diamonds in 2001. Are we gemologists able to screen, test and identify these HPHT and CVD laboratory grown diamonds? Branko shared with us the latest problems and solutions with the newest techniques.
SPECIAL: Nick Del Re, Manager of Gemological Services, EGL USA Lab, New York

gave an update on What’s New & Exciting in Gem Identification at EGL USA. This shorter but  condensed presentation will cover research on pink diamonds, also the examination of one of the largest pearls in the world as well as other gemological findings of artistic and scientific interest. The audience will discovered that some of these findings may lead to important issues that could potentially impact the Gem Trade in more ways than one.

December 2, 2008

Ulysses Grant Dietz, Senior Curator,  Curator of the Decorative Arts,  The Newark Museum
Putting Jewelry in its Place, Reclaiming Jewelry for the Decorative Arts
The general theme of the presentation was how a museum, focuses on the style of jewelry and how it links to broader decorative arts style trends of a period--from the Baroque to the present. From the GIA perspective, it is how Ulysses Grant Dietz, as a curator, views stones for what they represent stylistically and culturally--not their carat size, color or cut (unless cut is a stylistic marker). It was a most inquisitive lecture.

November 12, 2008
Wendi M. Mayerson, B.A., G.G.,  Elizabeth Quinn Darenius B.Sc., G.G., FGA, Christopher P. Smith, G.G.  and  C.R. “Cap” Beesley, G.G. of American Gemological Laboratories (AGL)
Hot Colored Stone Issues
The AGL staff gave a special talk on a variety of colored stone topics relevant to today’s marketplace. To begin Wendi Mayerson spoke about the recent controversy involving cobalt-coated tanzanite. Following this, Elizabeth Quinn Darenius provided an update on the proliferation of lead-glass filled rubies in the marketplace. Christopher P. Smith provided an overview of geographic/country-of-origin determinations. Closing the program, C.R. “Cap” Beesley discussed the recent legislation that was signed into law, banning the importation of Burmese rubies and jade. At the close of the meeting, they gave every attendee a composite ruby with an AGL report.

October 7, 2008
Tom Moses, G.G., Sr. V.P. and Akira Hyatt, GIA Laboratory and Research, NY
Update on GIA’s New Pearl Grading System and Pearl Treatments
This new complex world of pearls is ever changing with new products and enhancements. We as gemologists need to keep up to date as to identify and grade these gems. Appraisers need this information to further evaluate them. The group heard how these procedures are being addressed with GIA's newest Pearl Grading System from the top gun, Tom Moses.

September 17, 2008
Kathleen DiResta, Jewelry Designer
Jewelry Design Today
When does a talented artist decide it’s the right time to enter the real marketplace?
How does one know when to take the leap with one’s own creations? Emotions, monies, investments, how
to balance and just how to make it work are serious concerns.
Kathleen DiResta, an accomplished and successful jewelry designer has the answers to these questions.
She’s been there and done that. Come hear her story and secrets.

July 28, 2008
Antoinette Matlins, Professional Gemologist (PG)
The Changing World of Gem Treatments: A Glimpse Beneath the Surface
New gemstone treatments continue to enter the market and it seems there is no limit to the types of treatments being used and the number of gemstone varieties involved. The results of many treatments are permanent but many are not, and we're finding an alarming number of surface treatments being applied to colored gemstones and diamonds alike. Some of the most troublesome include "fancy-color" diamonds that are nothing more than off-color stones with a surface coating on the pavilion; surface coatings on off-color topaz that can transform them into very natural-looking--and much more costly--"pink topaz" and "precious" topaz, as well as the popular shades of "blue" topaz; and cobalt-coated "blue" sapphire that is anything but blue! Attendees heard about these and other surface treatments, examine stones, and learned some easy techniques to spot them.

July 9, 2008
Dayton Simmons, Owner of Silver Day Trading
Turquoise: Natural or Otherwise
The presentation focused on the fact that well over 95% of all turquoise currently available on the market is not NATURAL, which is defined as turquoise that is hard enough to cut and polish as it comes out of the ground. This includes rough material, cut cabochons, beads, carvings and finished jewelry. The vast majority of said material has gone through one of several hardening processes to make it commercially viable. The group became aware of the various turquoise treatments, learned about discerning natural turquoise from treated material and had an opportunity to see and feel the difference. Dayton displayed many samples of turquoise from the different mines and the various treatments.

May 14, 2008
Jacques Voorhees, President & C.E.O., Polygon
How Bricks & Mortar Retailers Can Compete Effectively Against The Internet Etailers
Retail store profit margins are under attack in the age of the Internet. Consumers used to come in with a
Rap sheet in their back pocket. Now they come in with printouts from internet e-tailers. Do you agree to
meet the price, and kill your margin? Do you preserve the margin and not make the sale? Is there a
third option?
Yes, there is. We learned how to avoid the “will you meet this price” trap. And also what you need to say to completely change the conversation, and earn the customer’s loyalty. Most importantly, learn how to preserve
your profit margin.

April 23, 2008
Donna Beaton, G.G. & Dr. Wuyi Wang
Current Issues & Updates: Colored Stones & Diamonds
Donna Beaton, Supervisor of Colored Stone Services at GIA, and Dr. Wuyi Wang, Research Scientist for GIA’s New York Laboratory, discussed various diamond treatments and synthetics, including updates on CVDs. With regard to colored stones, they shed light on lead glass filling in rubies, irradiated gemstones (blue topaz in particular), beryllium diffusion of corundum, and copper bearing tourmaline issues. The lecture ended with an update on GIA’s colored stone services.

March 12, 2008
Chris Del Gatto, CEO of Circa
CIRCA - The Only Brand in the Jewelry
You’ve seen their ads and as professionals within the estate jewelry world know, the one refrain you hear constantly within the industry is “you cannot find goods”. Circa does not have that problem due to their aggressive advertising campaign. Come peek inside the workings of CIRCA, which sources estate pieces directly from the public and brings them to market. We learned more about the benefits and features of their business model, as well as how they help retailers with inventory as well as close-out merchandise.

February 19, 2008
Dr. Rayner W. Hesse, Jr.
Jewelrymaking Through History
All art objects, whether they are paintings, pottery, sculpture, or any other media, represent the people who created them, and jewelry is no exception. Dr. Hesse spoke about jewelry making and jewelry usage, from ancient times to the present, describing the people, places, terms, and tools in the history of jewelry. Also he spoke about how the economic, geographic, political, religious, and social circumstances of a place and time influenced the materials that were used to make jewelry, the signs and symbols in that jewelry, as well as the way it was worn. More than just pretty pieces, jewelry often has great symbolism and tradition attached to it that is handed down through generations. Dr. Hesse brought samples and/or representations of the eras of jewelry making, focusing particularly on the jewelry of the last 200 years (as it is available and accessible). Members are invited to bring their own unique pieces to aid in the illustration and discussion.

January 15, 2008
Bryan Aderhold, G.G. and Arthur Groom of Eternity Natural Emeralds
Emerald Enhancements
Eternity Natural Emerald, headquartered in New Jersey, operates in New York, Afghanistan, Colombia, and Brazil. After purchasing emerald rough at the source locations (Colombia and Afghanistan), they cut emeralds in Brazil and enhance them in New York. Bryan and Arthur spoke about emerald enhancements and discussed Eternity Natural Emerald’s branded ExCel Process, which is the first and only colorless and stable enhancement for emerald.They emphasized how it can translate into increased emerald sales as well as improved
disclosure practices.

December 11, 2007
Joseph Menzie
Ethical & Fair Trade Corundum

Joe Menzie, former President of The International Colored Stone Association (ICA), presented on a number of salient topics regarding corundum. Joe began with a corundum update covering treatments such as diffusion and the introduction of lead glass ruby as well as fancy sapphire colors. Next, he discussed the pricing to origin relationship of corundum (for example Burma ruby and Kashmir sapphire) and touched upon other hot recent topics such as Paraiba tourmaline. Finally, the current situation in Burma & Kashmir as well as the issues of social responsibility and ethical consciousness were explored.

November 15, 2007
Joseph DuMouchelle, G.G.
Jewelry & Auction Review
Joseph DuMouchelle, G.G. is a Graduate Gemologist, Appraiser and Auctioneer with over 25 years of industry experience. His company specializes in the sale of fine gems and estate jewelry at auction in the International auction market. They have sold items belonging to grand estates, celebrities, stars, entertainers, private individuals, banks, attorneys, gemologists, appraisers, jewelers and wholesalers. Mr. DuMouchelle gave us a lecture with slides and a hands-on presentation review of great gems, jewels and objects d’arts sold at auction and privately over the past 10 years. We learned what is more valuable and how to find the best market to
sell in.

October 9, 2007
Peter J. Shemonsky, GG, Director of Circa Jewels
A History of Enamelwork in Jewelry
Peter J. Shemonsky, GG, is the Director of the San Francisco office and West Coast operations of Circa. He is the former Director of the Jewelry Department of Bonhams & Butterfields and has worked in various aspects of the jewelry industry including design, manufacturing, retailing and appraising. He is also currently one of the jewelry experts on the Antiques Roadshow.Peter presented a brief overview of enameling techniques and applications in jewelry along with the developmental history of this art form.

July 30, 2007
Jeff Pancis,
President & CEO of Pancis Gems
How Rainbows are Formed Underground
An insider's look at the rarefied air of color diamonds from Jeff Pancis, Pancis Gems, one of the leading market makers and early member of Natural Color Diamond Association (NCDIA). Why are color diamonds so rare? What diamond types are more likely to be color diamonds? Are color diamonds cut for weight or for color? What to look for in irradiated, natural and treated diamonds - this and so much more, ending with marketing strategies and statistics.

May 15, 2007
Patrick B. Ball, G.G.
Director, GIA Education Training Continuing Education
Patrick B. Ball, GG, gave a live demonstration of GIA on ITunes University and how the new Continuing Education Program will work for GIA Graduate Gemologists and Gemologists. Patrick covered the following topics:

• What is Podcasting?

• Discover “Inside GIA Education”

• GIA’s new Continuing Education program

• GIA on ITunes University – online live Dem

May 8, 2007
Liz Burnett, GG, RMVP
Director of Communications, EGL USA™, N.Y.
Lab Created Diamonds and Their Role in The Industry
Lab-grown diamonds have been around for decades, but only recently have we noticed the influx of these man-made diamonds in the wholesale and retail diamond markets. When we look at these lab-grown diamonds, it is not a question of who has mined these diamonds, but rather it has become a question of how old, or young, these diamonds are. With this lecture we will be looking at how lab-grown diamonds are really influencing our market and how we as gemologists, appraisers, wholesalers and retailers could deal with this trend.

April 20, 2007
Dan Campbell, GG, FGA, Director New York GIA-ED
Phenomenal Gems
You may deal with phenomenal gems in your business and you may have studied them at some point in your career. There’s a lot to know about these unusual materials, however. Like many other gemological topics, this one is dynamic. Our knowledge and understanding of phenomena, such as play of color and color change, is increasing. New sources, treatments and grading criteria further justify a review of this diverse gemstone category.

March 13, 2007
Reema Keswani, GG
GOLCONDA AND BEYOND
Diamonds & India: From Antiquity to Modern Day
During this lecture, we began our journey at the fabled mines of Golconda, which produced some of the most sought after diamonds, including the legendary Hope & the Kohinoor diamonds. We visited this dazzling region, long considered the jewel in India's crown, and the most important world source of diamonds for centuries. We will trace the history and lore of diamonds in India, from mining to influence abroad. We will end by exploring India's resurgent importance as a major cutting and manufacturing hub, which currently processes the largest volume of diamonds in the world.

February 21, 2007
Vivien Gornitz, Ph.D
Turquoise--Gem of Sky and Water
Turquoise has many ornamental uses and has a special relationship with the cultures of the Native Americans from the American Southwest. Vivien gave us an overview as well as the mineralogy, significant locations and related minerals regarding turquoise. Her lecture focused on the various cultures that have used turquoise for both its beauty and what was seen by them as its spiritual meanings.

January 9, 2007
Elyse Zorn Karlin, Publisher, Adornment
Chinese Kingfisher Feather Ornaments
Beautiful objects for personal adornment decorated with kingfisher feathers - jewelry, hair ornaments, headdresses and more have been a favorite of the Chinese for several thousand years. Yet little is known about them in the West. In the 1970s, after China began trading with the west again, these ornaments were brought into the US and turn up at auction and in private collections. A beautiful array of these items were shown.

December 5, 2006
Donna Baker, GG, President of GIA
Industry Trends and GIA's Response
The gem and jewelry business is facing many challenges today, ranging from consumer confidence to geographical shifts in production and consumption to the fundamental economic and value propositions. GIA's core mission is to ensure the public trust in gems and jewelry through research, education, laboratory services, and instrumentation. In being responsive to its core mission, GIA's service will continue to develop and evolve as it meets these challenges.

November 15, 2006
Eric Hoffman
Understanding Old Chinese Jades
Every GIA member is knowledgeable about jadeite, the type of jade usually seen in jewelry. But nephrite jade-- the remarkable material carved by the Chinese for over 5000 years-- is not as widely known. Mr. Hoffman's illustrated talk helped answer the essential questions about old Chinese jades:
1) Is it true jade or one of the many pseudo-jades?
2) Is the carving Chinese?
3) The most difficult question of all-- is it as old as the seller claims?

October 11, 2006
Abraham Stern, CEO IDEX Online
E-Commerce: The Changing Face of the Diamond and
Jewelry Industry in the WEB Age
Mr. Abraham Stern, the new CEO of IDEX Online covered how the Internet is impacting the B2B diamond trading side of the business. He talked about what advantages professionals have using IDEX.

September 13, 2006
Richard Buonomo, GG, CG Richard Buonomo Ltd.
The Asscher Cut Diamond - Emerald Cut with a Soul
The material presented focused on defining the Asscher Cut and what proportions render some of them so especially prismatic. Attention was
paid to the history of the Asscher Cut, current market trends and how to describe and sell Asscher cut Diamonds. A power-point presentation AND samples were brought to examine up close!

July 31, 2006
Albert Gilbertson, GG, Research Associate, and Barak Green, Communication Manager for the GIA Gem Lab GIA Diamond Cut Grading Seminar
Mr. Gilbertson and Mr. Green gave us an update about the new GIA Diamond Cut Grading System for Round Brilliant Cut diamonds. The history and research of how to judge brightness, fire, and scintillation, and how proportions, polish and symmetry relate to the final cut grade were revitalized.

June 13, 2006
Arthur Skuratowicz, GJG
Practical Approach to Jewelry Sketching
We learned quick jewelry sketching techniques for the bench jeweler, sales associate and everybody els in less than an hour. Fast enough to capture the idea, thorough enough to get the piece made.
If you’ve ever had an idea about a jewelry design but just could not remember it long enough to make it or describe it to a jeweler this was the presentation for you.
These techniques apply primarily to jewelry and gems but are based on basic drawing and illustrating principles. They work well during a sales presentation as well as for just “doodling” around. It’s also a great starting point for someone wanting to continue on as a jewelry designer. Structural as well as artistic topics were discussed.

May 17, 2006
Carolyn S. Jacoby, GG, Senior Representative, South Sea Pearl Consortium
The Five Virtues of South Sea Cultured Pearls
You know the 4C’s of diamonds, now finally we learned the proper way to assess the quality characteristics of white South Sea cultured pearls. We optimized our buying and selling by knowing what differentiates luster, complexion, size, shape and color. WE learned what makes these pearls so remarkable, the inspiration for world renowned designers and the aspiration for jewelry aficionados.

April 19, 2006
GIA Gem Laboratory Identification and Research Team
Chris Smith, GG, Director, Identification Services
Ilene Reinitz, PhD, Manager, Research and Development
Wendi Mayerson, GG, Staff Gemologist, Identification
Highlights From the GIA-GTL
Gemologists today face a wide array of treatments and synthetics, with more challenges hitting the market each year. Some of these treatments are detectable via standard gemological testing, if you know what to look for. Some treatments can only be identified using advanced testing equipment and therefore need to be sent to a lab. There are some cases, in which a gem’s identification – whether it is natural or synthetic, treated by nature or man – is undeterminable. Knowing when to send a stone to a lab is important, as well as knowing what to expect as a result from the lab.  GIA's cutting edge Identification and Research team discussed GIA's new and enhanced report services for both colored stones and diamonds. Several samples of these reports were provided for inspection. Also, we received insight into GIA's cut grade and recent modifications to the reports from the source.

March 15, 2006
G. Max Bernheimer, International Department Head of Antiquities Christie’s, New York
Ancient Greek Gems and Jewelry
This was a survey of the history of the subject, based in large part on objects that have been offered at auction with Christie’s, both in New York and London, concentrating primarily on the Archaic, Classical and Hellenistic periods, that is, the 7th to the 1st centuries B.C. We viewed some splendid examples of the goldsmith’s art, which is what normally comes to mind when we think of jewelry- but we will also looked at a wide array of engraved gems, which are small stones carved for use as seals.

February 15, 2006
Cecilia L. Gardner, CEO of JVC
Legal Compliance in the Jewelry Industry
The Final Answer on The Patriot Act! There have been adds-on to The Patriot Act and we in the jewelry industry need to know exactly how they effect US, retailers, manufacturers, designers, and jewelers.Ms. Gardner updated us and shared cautionary tales from JVC arbitration and discussed the processes involved.The setting was a roundtable with lots of questions about our obligations and fears of the ever growing Big Brother.

January 25, 2006
Maggie Campbell Pedersen, FGA
Gems For Life
The talk covered some of the more common gem materials of plant and animal origin - the so-called 'organics' - for example amber, coral, ivories and tortoise shell. Guidelines were given on how to identify them and distinguish them from their imitations.

January 11, 2006
Sharrie Woodring, GG, FGA, Senior Gemologist Gem Certification and Appraisal Lab
The Process of Detection in a Gem Laboratory
Have you ever wondered what happens in a gem laboratory? Ms. Woodring took us step-by-step through the diamond grading and identification processes at GCAL’s laboratory. She discussed some of the challenges facing the diamond industry today, such as the identification of treated and synthetic diamonds. You will learn about the methods and equipment GCAL is using to ensure the accurate identification of all the diamonds they certify. The focus will be on explaining the functions and uses of different types of instruments including the DiamondSure™, DiamondView™, FTIR and Raman spectrophotometers.

December 6, 2005
Richard Drucker, GG, Gemworld International Laboratories
Cut Grading and Light Performance of Diamonds--the New Frontier
Diamond performance is the new topic that has the industry in a buzz. The GIA and the AGS have researched and studied these topics leading to some new reporting on cut grades of diamonds. Richard has also entered this arena with his own laboratory, Gemworld International Laboratories in New York City. He sorted out what is being done in the industry, cleared up the mystery surrounding these topics and showed what his laboratory is doing with new state-of-the-art technology.

November 15, 2005
Kate and Fred Pearce, Pearce Design
Lapidary Arts Then and Now,"B" Chart Beauties and Other Beauties Come of Age
Fred and Kate Pearce have been designing and making unique jewelry since the 1960s. They have a reputation for creating unusual pieces incorporating unusual materials. They presented a story of the transition in design of both new materials as well as new contemporary lapidary arts. We were treated to a colorful powerpoint presentation of unique gemstone designs and we also were able to examine pieces personally.

October 11, 2005
Diana Singer, G.G. D&E Singer, Inc.
Original vs. Repro
Reproduction estate jewelry touches every part of the market today. Diana Singer, a third generation estate jewelry dealer, showed us the difference between original antique pieces and the repros that we encounter daily. We learned how to avoid the pitfalls that could cost money or your reputation - or both!

September 13, 2005
Bob Frank, Vice President Jewelers' Security Alliance
Crime Prevention 101
The material discussed during this presentation is designed to raise the security awareness of a person involved in the business of selling jewelry, regardless of their title, whether owner, sales associate, manager, etc, and to make their work environment a safer place. Topics for discussion covered how to spot the bad guys/gals, how to act during a confrontation with a criminal, what not to do, when to call the police, and how to discourage a criminal from targeting you.  Statistics on jewelry crime in the US were discussed. Attendees learned important strategies such as how to survive an armed robbery, how to set up an internal alert system and how to make your store look unappealing to a thief. Actual footage on video was shown of robberies in progress.

May 17, 2005
Nicholas Del Re, GG, BSc, Mnger. of Gemological Services at The European Gemological Lab in NYC
Faceted Diamond Patents
At the turn of this century, the year 2000, there was a flood of intellectual property awarded in Utility and Design Patents concerning faceted diamonds. The focus was on faceted gems primarily issued in the USPTO (United States Patent and Trade-mark Organization) as well as some issued from other worldwide Patent Systems existing under WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization). The originality of recent properties compared with those from the past century was examined, reviewed and illustrated. Topics that were considered:The first patented diamond cuts; How new diamond cuts are patented; How patented and branded cuts relate to
each other.

April 21, 2005
Don Kay of Mason-Kay:
Appraising Jadeite Jade
Mr. Kay discussed specific appraisal techniques for jadeite jade - when to go high, when to go low and when to "stay away until further testing is done." What constitutes value and , conversely, what detracts from value is just one of the many considerations that appraisers need to know. Various forms of jade were presented (cabochons, beads, bangles and specialty items). All colors were considered as well as recent changes in the market.

March 16 , 2005
Gary Roskin, FGA, GG, Gemstone Editor of JCK Magazine
Carbon Vapor Diamonds (CVD): Diamond Coated Tools, Synthetic Diamond Jewelry and
Diamond Computer Chips
Cultured, synthetic, or created...gem quality lab grown diamond is here to stay, but not for the reason you think. The gem business is good, but it's not what the growers of synthetic diamond are after. Think about the creation of the world's most powerful computer chip the size of the head of a pin. Gary Roskin pointed out what's new in synthetic diamond manufacturing, which included nomenclature, an update on HPHT, and the CVD growth processes. Then we were given a more detailed look at the various uses of these products as gemstones for jewelry, memorial, diamond coatings for highly advanced tools, and diamond plates for the real deal - computer electronics.

February 15 , 2005
Edward Rosenzweig , Edwards Minerals, LLC.
Gem Crystals - Collectible Beauty
Why are mineral specimens collected? What are their value factors (their 4 c's)? How can understanding gem crystals help the gemologist or jeweler? Mr. Rosenzweig, a dealer and lifelong collector of minerals, presented a connoisseur's and gemologist's view of the market, using photographs from his collection and inventory. He discussed how fine mineral specimens can be used in gem and jewelry marketing - both advertising and merchandising. In addition, he brought some specimens for a hands-on discussion. Attendees brought in their mineral specimens for "show and tell."

January 12 , 2005
Camilla Dietz Bergeron, Camilla Dietz Bergeron, LTD
From Stocks to Rocks
This incredible woman dared to make a mid-life career change - going from partner at a prestigious brokerage/investment banking firm to proprietor of an antique, period & estate jewelry business, and catering to retail customers and the trade. Ms. Bergeron discussed similarities and differences between the two and offered tips for differentiating yourself from the competition and how to build a successful business. She brought specimens for a hands-on discussion. Attendees brought in their mineral specimens for "show and tell."

December 7, 2004
Charles A. Meyer, Vice President, Lazare Kaplan International, Inc.
Bryant Linares President, Apollo Diamond
Mr. Meyer updated the membership on the progress of a well known but non-mainstream diamond, Bellataire diamonds: the growth of the business, market/trade acceptance, and competitive HPHT products. The presentation included a review of the HPHT process. Finally, Mr. Meyer spoke a bit about branded diamonds, a product positioned somewhat differently now that the initial Supplier of Choice sweepstakes are over.
Mr. Meyer shared the spotlight with Bryant Linares, President of Apollo Diamond. Apollo is growing diamonds using a CVD process (Carbon Vapor Deposit), which has the potential, over time, to produce colorless, clean diamonds over one carat. Mr. Linares discussed the process, product attributes, and different potential applications for the product, focusing, though, on the gem and jewelry markets. He provided a preview of the marketing plan for the product, as well as the steps being taken to protect the industry through identification and disclosure.

November 9, 2004
Howard Rubin, GG, GemDialogue Color Systems
Workshop on GemDialogue, Color Description for Gemstones and Fancy Color Diamonds
GemDialogue color charts, Ott lighting and stones were provided to learn why matching against an organized set of colors can beat verbal color description every time. We made 25 stones match against the charts to test for consistency. It was evident why this system is so popular.

October 12 , 2004
Kevin Zavian, Cluster Jewelers & Antiques Roadshow Participant
Workshop on Wristwatches
With plenty of hands-on material, Kevin Zavian showed us how to be more comfortable in dealing/handling/appraising watches - how to examine, grade them and tell the age. Also how to tell what's right and wrong with a watch.

September 14, 2004
Henry & Stanley Grossbard of Radiant Cut Diamond Corp.
Understanding Radiant Cuts
Henry Grossbard and his son, Stanley, increased our understanding of Radiant Cut Diamonds through an informative discussion/seminar, which provided an in-depth understanding of how to properly evaluate and distinguish the cut and beauty of each Radiant. It enabled attendees to answer questions from consumers that challenge even the most educated gemologists.

August 17, 2004
Arthur Anton Skuratowicz, CGA NJA GJG (GIA)
Anatomy of a Jewelry Appraisal
This discussion covered the many components of a professionally prepared jewelry insurance appraisal. Though insurance appraisal practices were covered, other intended uses were compared. The minimal content of a jewelry insurance appraisal was itemized and analyzed based on the USPAP (Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice) as well as requirements of several appraisal associations. This is an ongoing discussion/analysis of appraisal practice and is based on research used to publish numerous articles in Professional Jeweler and JCK magazines. Copies of the articles were distributed.

July 26, 2004
Anne Dale, FGA, Director Gem-A USA
Michael Cohn, Director of the Jewelry Dept., Fashion Institute of Technology
The famed FGA program comes to America from England with its headquarters in Louisiana and an Allied Teaching Center right here in New York City at FIT. Participants in this meeting learned more about the Gem-A program and how it is such a dramatically different gemology program. The course book was available for perusal with Ms. Dale and Mr. Cohn as they answered many questions. A small selection of Gem-A products were presented for an intimate hands-on.  Our speakers donated to our scholarship fund auction an OPL hand held spectroscope and several ink pens from Harrod's.

• How the different crystal systems correspond to the seven chakras (energy centers)
• Explored subtle energies of gems and crystals
• Used our knowledge to expand our businesses
• Healing properties of Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, Diamond and Pearl as well as many, many more!